Well that certainly was a very variable experience, with many ups and downs. All in all, though, I'd have to say that things turned out better than feared, at least after the unexpectedly dreary second day.

That day was my main brush with the high water levels, something which local media was reporting on upon my return to Ritsem – not just up in the fjelds, but all along Lule älv down to the coast. Late melting of the winter's snow combined with several outburst of heavy rainfall had filled the river's reservoirs, and even with open floodgates the sheer volume proved difficult to handle. The boat drivers who aided me said that they had been coming to this area to fish and hunt for 15 years and had never seen Áhkájávrre this high. Obviously Gränsleden had not been established with this eventuality in mind, and it was sheer luck that I got a ride, especially since I otherwise might very well have turned back like several others apparently had.

I'm very glad that I did not, however, as that would have precluded my stay at Røysvatnhytta. The afternoon part of the walk there was very wet, yes, but I didn't find that particularly troublesome as for one thing I had expected it to rain all day and for another I knew there would be a warm cottage waiting for me at the end – and the sauna was just perfect in that weather. Most of all, though, I appreciated the socializing with all the others there – shared hardships and all that – not to mention my impromptu hiking partner on day 4.

While a visit to Paurohytta had been part of the plan from the start, I simply didn't feel I had the time – or, more properly, vigor, or just plain volition – to walk all the way over there just to head back again, as continuing along Nordkalottleden would definitely have been too long a journey for my food supply. Instead I resolved to return some other time, when I intend to camp at one of those pretty beaches along Skuogejávrre along the way. As per a certain Austrian, I'll be back.

I was feeling a bit on edge after leaving the relative safety of the trails, even though their condition was in parts rather bad, as the way back towards Sitasjaure and Ritsem was entirely unknown to me, and I only had the map to go on. While the weather certainly deteriorated quickly after that beautiful early morning at Gåbddåjávrre, the trek eastwards along said lake was quite pleasant, and if I'm ever in those parts again I'll try a route closer to the water. It was with some satisfaction that I put up the tent south of the Márggo/Álitoajvve pass that afternoon, as I then felt "safe", with known areas within reach. The low clouds on the next day did instill a wee bit of concern, but the passage over to Sitasjaure ended up being quite simple.

Before I get further, it is time to address the metaphorical elephantine roommate. I don't really know how or why, but everything just took longer this time around: walking, camping, breakfasts... I didn't feel particularly tired or otherwise afflicted, but for some reason I simply didn't manage to cover as much ground as I'm used to, even with a heavier pack than what I had now. Whatever the cause I had to adapt in the field, where Pauro was the first thing to get tossed out; next up was the direct route down from Gähtjoajvve, and finally the (albeit optional) end stage past Gállaktjåhkkå. It certainly felt, well, sorrowful not to be able to do everything I had set out to do, but that's just the rules of the game: if conditions change, you change with them, and make the best of the new situation.

Now, things were clearly not bad per se – I was in no distress of any kind, and the weather was getting better – and what I did end up doing was quite rewarding in itself. First off I got to visit Sitasjaure again, eight years since last time, and I maintain that it is a very nice and tranquility-inducing place, despite the exploitation. And, of course, instead of Gállaktjåhkkå and a sudden departure from Vakkotavare I could chalk up another stay at Saltoluokta, which is always worth it, and the dinner and views did not disappoint this time either. That sunset and subsequent sunrise over Láŋas were simply stellar, and I was very glad to be just there just then.

So, while this was not my greatest tour in terms of external conditions, it was quite enjoyable both on the whole and in several specific constituent parts, and I'm very glad that I decided to go for it. Also, after that last weekend temperatures dropped sharply, so it felt like I had managed to catch the last batch of summer. And, of course, there's nothing like a little adversity to make the good moments stand out all the more. Come what may, indeed.