Tuesday 19/8

The light rain continued during the night, and the clouds were mostly low. I slept like a log, getting up after 07:30 in a chilly room, and outside the sun was making breakthrough attempts. Mists were still moving further off, but on the whole things appeared to be improving, and the forecast for the day was also encouraging. I talked some with Leif outside, and then started the day's stage around 09:45, wearing the wind jacket against the wind which was back to strong.

Morning light

At first my knee was quite painful, but then I found a mode of walking which alleviated it, plus the fact that I got warmer, so it was fine. The first bit on the trail was somewhat cumbersome, but then a few duckboards took by, and before long I was at the juncture with the informal trail to Singi. I then passed over two suspension bridges in quick succession, the second of which was somewhat crooked, and landed on very nice ground for a change. In going up to the little pass between Čuolak and rise 998 I observed Giebmegáisi emerging in part from the clouds far away, but the actual summits remained concealed.

Leaving Hukejaure

Cloudy

Approaching Gáiccajávri

Somewhat lighter

Another delta

Bridged stream

Powdered Giebmegáisi

Last look at Gáiccajávri

Last look at Sealggá/Giebmegáisi

The view on the other side of the pass involved rain in the distance, around Siiddasjávri, but closer by there were patches of blue sky; still no sun, however. Down in the dell north of Lihtti the ground consisted of nice, hard heath and I held a high tempo since walking was so easy. It grew a bit softer closer to the stream from Lihtijávrrit, which was another case of no-longer-a-functioning-bridge-but-it-wasn't-needed. The way up the northwestern slopes of Lihtti was grassier, and now patches of sunlight had started appearing in various places around me.

Distant rain

Bare rock

Some sun

Looking back

Northwest

I passed the drawn-out Sámi encampment beside Guojujávri, crossing an actual road made by ATVs. This portion of the trail enjoys a questionable repute for having been ruined by such vehicles, but quite frankly I didn't think the marks were any worse than what popular hiking routes such as Kungsleden itself displays on its most frequented parts. Well, at least not as long as the ground was fairly dry – there were portions a bit later where the tracks went right beside the duckboarded trail over wet grassland, and that wasn't too pretty. That didn't last for very long, however, and I was soon approaching Áinnajohka and the very much functioning bridge there. It was still windy, and luckily I found a perfect spot to sit down among the rock formations at the southern foundation of the bridge at 12:30.

Guojujávri and the encampment

Álitoajvve

More distant fjelds

The Áinnajohka bridge

While I was having lunch the sun made an appearance, and off to the northwest things were looking decidedly better, the rains having long since moved off. Getting up again after being still for half an hour was a stiff business, but I quickly got back into the flow. First up was the passage of a reindeer fence, which involved removing and replacing boards, after which another area of nice heathland took by. The ATV tracks were winding to and fro, sometimes jumbling with the path of the trail, but I kept to the latter whenever I could discern it. The stream leading to a collection of tarns closer to Lihtijohka turned out to be quite swift, and I walked a bit upstream to find an easier crossing – and ended up on the ATV tracks again. Of course. After that the ground got wetter, and duckboards started appearing. Soon the tracks broke off and went up Áinnavárdu, but I stayed with the trail.

Nice lunch view

Áhkká emerging

Towards Norway

Towards Sitasjaure

On the trail

Máidahariehppi

Came this way

Going this way

From the windy crest overlooking Siiddasjávri I had a grand view over this lake and a line of impressive Norwegian peaks beyond it, and the vista was a beautiful one even though it was marred by the large power line east of the water, as well as the naked shores – Siiddasjávri is a large hydroelectric reservoir, its waters led through a 20-km tunnel down to the power station at Ritsem. The descent was not at all pleasant, however, for now my knee really didn't want to cooperate, so I had to come up with a technique that spared it as much as possible – while at the same time not putting too much strain on the other knee. It was therefore a relief when the slope finally ended, and I was treated to some cloudberries before reaching the low dam at the former outflow, which was not needed at the moment since the ground was dry in a wide corridor here.

Gállaktjåhkkå and Áhkká

Siiddasjávri

The Sámi encampment at the southeastern end of the lake

International power line

Álitoajvve capped

Almost down

No need for a dam

Arrival

The warden Nils-Arne was just coming out as I walked up to the older of the Sitasjaure cottages – the closest one – before 14:45, and we talked for a long while outside before I went up to the newer cottage, being its sole guest at the moment. This was a nice-looking building of the same layout and old style as in Vakkotavare, and I took up residence in the two-bed room. I then went out for a bit in the improving weather, eating a fair bit of cloudberries that grew all around the hill, noting the approach of two hikers upon the gravel road from Ritsem. After talking a bit with Nils-Arne these continued towards Hukejaure, and I went over to answer an invitation for some whitefish with potatoes and fresh bread (who wouldn't?) with him and his wife.

Inside the upper cottage

Lake view

Gállaktjåhkkå in the back

For cooking, I presume

Another long talk followed, after which I tried out the sturdy bicycle that was parked outside – these can be rented from the Ritsem tourist facility and the Sitasjaure warden drives them back on the restricted gravel road built by the power company, but he can only take two at a time and I was lucky that there had been three on site that day. It was a bit uncomfortable to use with my knee, but it was still better than walking on the road all the way down to Ritsem the next day. I then picked a cupfull of both cloudberries and blueberries, and after some quiet time inside went out for a walk when the sun came out in full. After that I read in some info material in the common room, and then had dinner – still by myself.

For breakfast

Álitoajvve almost free

Clouds still hugging Gállaktjåhkkå

Cottage site

After reading some in my book and chatting a bit with Nils-Arne who stopped by to check on me I went out for another walk, scaring the sense out of another hare as I followed a smaller path between the closest buildings belonging to the adjacent Sámi encampment. It was a still and beautiful evening, and even though the hydroelectric exploitation may have robbed Sitasjaure of its purity, it has not given up its beauty and serenity – but I can only imagine what a great place it must have been in days of yore. The last light played on the clouds in a mesmerizing fashion, and I stood outside gazing at it until it faded – waving at a fair number of mosquitos and other irritating bugs – and then contentedly went to bed around 21:45.

Two views...

...of the cottages

Shining lines

Calm evening