Monday 6/7

I started out in the slippers since I would take the ford straight away. I had decided to try out the upper one of the two courses I had observed, tracing an oblique line out to the bush in the middle of the water, and found it to work rather well, with a few deeper steps; it was just as cold and slippery as expected, though. The next little crossing to get off the island I had landed on was simple, as was the following canal coming from the large snowfield off to my right, after which I changed into the boots.

I then walked through a low osier thicket up to the cairn-marked path, which I followed from there; the condition of the path as such varied, but the cairns were clear all the way. At the brook coming from an old marble quarry I observed what might have been the remnants of the first Kårsavagge cottage, which is supposed to have been situated about there, and all the while there was a multitude of flowers. As I ascended the view of the valley grew, making the contrast between the verdant lows/east and snowy highs/west stand out. Nice indeed!

Going over

One of those

Bye bye cottage

Traces

Flower mats

Cottage still visible

Vuolimus Gorsajávri appearing

White/green

Higher

After a steep snowfield which also provided good grip I landed in an area of similarly steep but loose rocks, which took some care, and then the ground turned wetter due to recently melted snow. After a bit I realized that I had ended up on the lower of several parallel paths, all with cairns, and climbed up to the uppermost one. I was now about to turn into the hollow east of peak 1201/1204, which involved crossing the largest snowfield yet, where I quite literally followed in the footsteps of those who had gone before. Here the air was markedly chillier, and sun-occluding clouds added to the effect.

A lakeful

At the turn

Only snow

In the hollow itself the ground was a mix of grass, moss and stone – and water – and a couple of reindeer watched my passing on an adjacent snowfield. Then things got stonier as I continued to ascend, and the last bit up to the crest consisted of another snowfield. As usual I was exhilerated by the prospect of a suddenly appearing wide vista...

The hollow

Behind

Curious reindeer

Aloof reindeer

Bells here too

Climbing

A piece of Torneträsk

Cresting

...and I was not disappointed! Peak after peak lined the horizon, getting snowier the further west I let my gaze drift, and the whole scene was just spectacular. After looking at it for a good while I started the descent on the southern side, which took me over yet another large snowfield before the cairns reappeared together with the flowers. I came down to a shelf of sorts and then made my way down into another hollow with a nice stream in it right at the border of the national park. After that it was a fairly steep slope downwards, but the path was good and the cairns were still in evidence.

Panorama from southeast to southwest from the crest

Closeup panorama from Moarhmmáčohkka to Sealggá

Gorsavággi from the crest

Closeup of northern fjelds

Another

Abiskoalperna

Going down

Next hollow

Ábeskojávri

Yellow

Godučohkka/Njuikkostak closeup

More snow

The next, considerably larger shelf was now in full view, with its lush but low vegetation, which was also a pleasant sight, especially with the blue surface of Ábeskojávri behind. I crossed the stream I had been following without problems, refilling my flask, and then made my own way for a little bit until a steep section had me returning to the path – and another larger snowfield. The next bit consisted of heath, grass and wetness, with some snow and stones mixed in, and as I neared the tree line things got muddier. At a long snowfield leading down in among the trees I met a trio of hikers going up; they were headed for Kårsavagge, but would then be continuing to Abisko straight away.

Torneträsk and the shelf

Ábeskojávri below

The descent thus far

Where I came down previously

Nice backdrop

Nearing the forest

Fjelds north of Torneträsk

The forest path was good and dry, with a few steeper parts – and lots of flowers. I passed two people sitting in the slope and after a while I started getting further away from the rather loud stream – and just as it was starting to feel long the ground levelled out, the trees grew sparser and I caught sight of the lake. The path took me above the famous beach, which was deserted at the moment, and then past a number of campsites in among the last trees, with a few tents present. I passed the dog cottage and finally came out onto the yard of the Abiskojaure cottages, where there were some people out and about. Said yard is nowadays fenced by ramps constructed some years ago when the whole place saw a targeted accessibility upgrade. Me, I walked straight over to the wardens' cottage shortly before noon, finding three of my colleagues outside.

Lush

At the lake

Blue waters

Imposing Giron

The playa

Dog cottage

Arriving

Sauna (not in use)

I entered into a lengthy conversation with them, fending off an increasing quantity of mosquitos, comparing tour notes and tips. Eventually a fourth warden emerged, and we soon settled down for a communal lunch complete with freshly baked banana cake and bread, while other visitors were resting and bathing in the warm air. Eventually the wardens had to get back to work, Abiskojaure being a busy place with high throughput – even under present circumstances. Before leaving I was given a couple of empty spray bottles which were missing in Kårsavagge, and after some more talk I finally left before my posted return time threatened to become unattainable.

Approaching the beach again I saw that the path leading all the way out was flooded, so no playa visit this time. Climbing up through the forest was a warm affair, but there was a bit of wind too. The snowfield at the tree line had grown noticeably softer, but still carried well, and after that I kept to the path/cairns all the way up. I passed a couple of guys who were taking a break off to the side, making quick progress with my light pack.

Noisy

Gárddenvárri et al

Exiting the forest

Final snowfield

Gárddenvárri et al again

Distant

On the shelf

Well marked

Peaks

Framed

Bluer than most

I enjoyed the growing views as I got higher and higher, and before long I was nearing the crest again. Right there at the top I met the two people I had "sent" to the Bajimus Gorsajávri bend the day before, which they were very happy about, being in full agreement with me that it was a terrific spot to camp on. After saying goodbye to them (again) I held a high tempo down through the hollow, and then noted three clear slide tracks on the snowfield at the turn, where the trio from before had obviously enjoyed a shortcut.

High

Higher

More of Abiskoalperna

Another southern closeup

Over the edge

Slide marks...

...on the large snowfield

I kept to the highest of the paths and then just walked on as they combined again. I could see people moving about at the cottage, and also one person a short bit further up the valley. After the "marble brook" I walked on the wide grassy expanse below the path, and then went straight through the osier to the ford island, noting that the single hiker walked up to the warden's cottage and sat down on the bench against its southern gable. As I was changing to the slippers the trio who made up the other visitors present departed for Abisko, and then I took the straight course across, which was even colder. Once on the other side I cut across the low hills and walked directly to my cottage and the remaining guest, arriving at 16:15.

What a view

Gorsajohka outflow

Still on the path

Tower

Halfway down

That cairn again

Cracked

Last obstacle

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