Monday 19/8

The wind kept shifting throughout the night, as did my sleeping position due to the slant. It was rather warm with some short showers, but it wasn't until later that the clouds pulled together and it started raining for real. It was only a drizzle at first, but after I had had breakfast (inside) it changed to a more heavy variety. I packed up as much as I could without going outside, noting two (2) more mosquitos, and since things weren't looking up I prepared for full rain-mode. After a more intense outburst of rain had passed I eventually went out and struck the tent, shaking off most of the wetness first, and although there was a fog moving in the rain was petering out almost to the point of non-existence by the time I was ready to leave, but I kept the rain clothes on just the same when I set off after 10.

Nice enough morning...

...that quickly turned bad

I walked up into the little pass whence the little brook came, where I entered the dense fog. When I exited it on the other side I was treated to a nice albeit cloudy view of Ábeskojávri's valley, where there was even a little bit of sun. Here my phone acquired the net again, and I received a delayed message from Emma (who had ascended Gállanvárri the day before and found a signal herself). I followed a nice, shallow furrow down to the plateau above the forest, walking on its edge the last bit and then made sure not to get too low. From there I passed the cairns marking the path between Abiskojaure and Kårsavagge, and then easily found my way between low shrubs.

Cloud drifting up

Leaving Boazojávri

Into the mist

Eerie

Near the edge

Valley sight

Ábeskojávri

Low clouds

The rain, the clouds and the views kept going back and forth, and it was fairly warm with no wind to speak of. I went up on a hill in order to bypass what looked like a tricky portion, but once past it I saw that it would have worked out fine anyway. I maintained my altitude as I walked upon grass and heath – all wet, of course – and a bit later I came onto a faint path that led down towards the reindeer-watching hut just below the 700 m level. The rain intensified as I turned left before this building, skirting the edge of the wet mires that made up this part of the plateau I was now on, which did not help the feeling of moisture in my boots.

I came to an area with higher shrubs between trees, but when the former got lower I adjusted my heading between the latter, which I was pleased to note (through the fog) had held on to most of their leaves. Suddenly the clouds lifted and Gorsavággi opened up below me, into which I descended, rounding Njunesgeahči. I first saw two people heading down the valley on the other side of Gorsajohka, and then the bridge over this stream, which was still further off than I would have wished for. Still, I did not fancy fording here, so I treaded carefully over to it where I immediately sat down for lunch at 12:45.

Shifting patterns...

...in the clouds...

...as I proceeded...

...along the plateau

Glimpse of Torneträsk

Ábeskoeatnu below

More mist

Down

Passing by this one

Foggy trees

Gorsavággi opening up

Intended direction of travel

Spotting the bridge

As I ate the clouds broke apart in full, revealing the sky once more, and since I was still within the reach of the cell tower I checked the weather forecast, which was favorable enough that I thankfully changed out of the clammy rain gear. There was also a bit of weak sun as I got going again, crossing the bridge first, and it was much more comfortable walking in the changed air. The trail was also good, and as I passed out of the valley more and more of it was visible in the steadily improving weather. The path dove into a genial forest, and since there was virtually no wind there (but a good deal of sun) I soon stopped to remove the wind jacket. I chose to follow the regular trail rather than going down directly to Ábeskoeatnu, and after a while went out to a common outlook spot from where I returned to the path through soft undergrowth.

Blue patch

Up Gorsavággi

Those quadrupeds

Exiting Gorsavággi

Abiskoalperna from the other side

Greener...

...in these woods

Ballinvággi

Panorama over Torneträsk

I passed four people in a slope after which the vegetation started getting leafier, even though it was clearly displaying signs of autumn. Rihtonjira hosted little water at the moment, and so was mostly a stony course, but Ábeskoeatnu at the next common outlook spot was as swift as ever as it passed through a canyon. I made my own way back to the trail once more, and before long I reached the end of it at the road to the cableway. Just there I met another hiker, and then one more at the start of Kungsleden, after which I walked up to the tourist station at 15:00 where the presence of just a few people was a stark contrast to the start of the tour.

Lapporten

More of Ballinvággi

Grassy

Ábeskoeatnu canyon

Again

Almost there

Foaming tunnel

Portal

Jump to Abisko report »