Sunday 15/9

I slept soundly, going out at 6 to find a shower was just taking place, giving rise to a rainbow. There was a wind blowing but due to the clouds the temperature was not as cold as expected. People were already departing, but I returned to bed and stayed there until 07:30, at which time my roommates were also arising. By then the rain was gone and the clouds were breaking up, but the wind was to continue throughout the day according to the morning forecast delivered by the warden.

After breakfast I went for another walk along the hills, this time taking a higher path and turning upwards when I was about to retrace part of yesterday's route, passing through some thickets. After passing a smaller pond with some birds in it I came to Mudmere from my warden assignment 16 years past. The sun was breaking through as I made my way back down, where more people were leaving, and then I started packing to do so myself. By the time I was ready the occupants of my room were the only ones left – and as it happened all of us were from Jämtland, so apparently locals like to sleep in – and I was the first of those to go at 09:45, wearing the wind jacket.

Lighter

From above

Coming to...

...Mudmere

Gruvsmällen et al

Walking the trail in the somewhat cold light was a pleasant experience, and since it was mostly sheltered from the wind I soon started to feel a bit warm. After a while the ground turned wet from time to time, and in among those patches I met a couple going the other way, so most likely campers. The trail had been rerouted in several places to avoid the worst of the wetness, and when it emerged into more open spaces the wind returned. After passing a campsite at a small mere the trail descended into forest proper, and at the next brook I stopped to remove the jacket as it was now warmer again.

Setting out

Bye!

Nice trail ahead...

...as well as behind

Autumnal

Reindeer before Gråsjödörren

Out into...

...the open

Marked

More trees

Li'l mere

Paused here

Just where the trail reached Vålån there was a perfect campsite, currently unoccupied, and by now the sun was out in full. Then followed a bumpy expanse of grass and low bushes which permitted no camps, and at the far side the path ascended into more forest before going back down to the suspension bridge over Vålån where there was another campsite (of lower quality due to the steep way down to the water). The bridge itself was narrow and prone to swinging, and after safely crossing it I paused for a bit of chocolate.

Vålån down

Vålån up

Vålån across

Grassland...

...of the bumpy sort

Up

Helags rising

Down to...

...the bridge

Vålån down again

Vålån up again

The forest on the southern side was of a pleasant nature, but before long the trail broke off its old heading to follow the top of a ridge right at the edge of the steep brink of Vålån. This was reminiscent of the return trek from Ruovddášjohka from my wardenship in Pältsa last year, but the views were even greater and persisted for longer due to the sparseness of the trees here (and there was no shoe damage this time). It was a really spectacular stretch, so great choice of a new trail route!

In the forest...

...turning to autumn

Vålån rapids

Looking back

Vålåvalen & Ottfjället

More whitewater...

...in Vålån

Walking the ridge

Rises

Gråsjöfjället

Vålåvalen proper

End of ridge

It was also very dry, and this state of affairs continued as the path got closer to the winter trail markers again, but still maintained a separate route. After an open stretch Vålådalen's signature large gnarly pines started appearing, and the density of the forest increased to about 50 %. I spotted the group of six from Vålåvalen ahead of me, but as we reached the Tronnan bridge at the same time I broke off to check out a nearby campsite so they maintained their lead. On the eastern side followed a sea of juniper shrubs, and when the trail reached a line of duckboards over a mire I finally passed the others.

Sturdy...

...mountain pines

Trondfjällen

More of Gråsjöfjället

Tronnan bridge

Another campsite

Crossing Tronnan

The juniper sea

Next up was a short ascent to the large open area between Trondfjällen and Hjulåsen, onto which I emerged after another reroute across a jumble of large rocks. Here the wind was just right for the effort level, and the new trail routes continued past wet patches; still nothing the shoes couldn't handle. The views grew as the terrain opened up more and more, and it was another very nice stretch to walk. I debated whether to stop for lunch, but decided to continue for a bit longer, stepping across a small brook as a slight upward slope started. When it levelled out again after noon I walked over to a group of flat rocks above the trail and sat down on the one which offered the best view through the scattered trees.

Going up...

...to the open area

Vålåvalen behind

Colorful

Wider views

Härjångsfjällen behind

Fully open

Northwest

Left the path around here

I put on the jacket against the wind and sat still for a bit before digging into my lunch. I could hear the others further down the slope, but as I never saw them I assumed they had also stopped for a break, presumably at the brook. After enjoying the vistas and the nice weather some more I continued eastwards, keeping the jacket on for now. The depression of Hjulåsbäcken was particularly pretty, and then the ground turned stonier. The path went over a wooded hill, where I removed the jacket since it was now warm again, and then started the long descent towards Tvärån.

Panorama from the lunch site, with Vålåvalen in the middle

On the move...

...back to the trail

Hjulåsbäcken

Off the plateau

Trail split

On the hill (behind)

On the hill (ahead)

After an uneven stony heath the downhill slope started in earnest, and again the forest I entered gave a pleasant impression. There were some wet patches but also a couple of largely unnecessary footbridges over a stream readily taken in stride. Down at the bottom the forest turned spruce-dominant, and before long I found myself at Tvärån – which, as I seemed to recall, was a ford. While very easy as such, the depth was more than the shoes could handle, but there was also a jumble of logs in the water which together with good balance and careful feet placement just barely enabled a dry crossing – and if they hadn't I had had a glimpse of what looked like a bridge-like construction at the winter trail crossing a short distance away.

Another flat section...

...with more rocks

Ottfjället again

Down into...

...the woods

Tvärån ford

On the other side the forest was sparser and the trail followed a wide swath before emerging onto the open heathland before the Lunndörrsån bridge. I stepped over another little side brook and then crossed the bridge, noting the beauty of the stream underneath it and that I now had a fairly good view of Lunndörrspasset. The way back up through the forest was also rerouted, and the slope was a lengthy one where it was also rather warm due to the lack of wind.

Single cross

Dual cross

Back in

Back out

Next bridge

Flat again

Lunndörrsån

Crossing completed

Double

Behind

Up again

Another cross

End of slope

Finnångeltjärnarna above the crest were a pretty bunch, and the semi-open character of the landscape made for more great views all around. Then came the most notable reroute yet, turning sharply towards the Tossåsen trail. As the sparse forest gave way to another tarn the wind came back in force, but when the trails met up it died down again. The last bit past Lunndörrstjärnarna was a pretty one, and as I reached the cottages at 15:15 I found the two wardens outside taking care of a berry harvest.

Passing by...

...the group of...

...Finnångeltjärnarna

Stensdalen in the distance

Semi-open

More open

Lunndörrspasset

Saanta across the tarn

Rekdalen in another distance

Saanta again

Stony

Dark waters

Light waters

A welcoming sight

I talked for a while with them, being the only other person on site at the moment, and was then given a room of my own (for now). As I had heard in Vålåvalen the firewood heaters were off-limits due to condemned chimneys, but there was ample stored heat from the warm day so no worries. There was a bit more wind and also some clouds as I had afternoon tea out on another porch. More people were starting to arrive, but there were no signs of my trailing group yet. I went for a photo walk as the sun passed into and out of cloud, and then was the first to the sauna.

On the porch

Towards Vålådalen

Same

Towards Stensdalen

It was warming nicely but not quite "there" yet, so I tended to the fire and went to fetch some more firewood in the meantime. When I returned the temperature had risen considerably, so in I went – and the heat was indeed felt. The thermometer on the wall claimed values in excess of 95°C, and even though I somehow doubted its veracity it was hot. Another man came in and we both made several visits to the porch and the tarn to cool off before calling it quits. Great session!

The wind was now rather strong but the sun made its presence known more just as the sextet finally arrived. Being hungry as few I immediately set about making dinner and proceeded to wolf it down. I then went for another photo round, noting the lingering warmth in the air even though the sun was being occluded again. Back inside I read in my bed in the fading light, and after resting for a bit I went out again in the dusk before having an evening snack.

I read some more, now aided by my headlamp, while the wind howled in the unused chimney. Outside the sky was a mixture of clouds and stars, and suddenly the full moon rose over the tarn giving rise(!) to a great nightly scene. Most people had already drifted off to bed, and I did so as well in a tired state at 21:45.