Saturday 14/9
It was a chilly morning with local frost, and as the train sped westwards from Östersund there were large areas enveloped in fog. Said train arrived on time in Undersåker, which had almost no visibility at all, and in short fashion I was on the taxi-bus together with a handful of other people also seeking to take advantage of the fair weather. Before long we climbed out of the fog, emerging into a clear day that looked set to deliver on the forecast's promises. Three people disembarked in Vallbo, and once in Vålådalen proper I found the air to be rather cold, with more frost still on the ground in the shadows. I therefore opted to wear the wind jacket when I set off before 09:30.
The air was still and once in the forest it was also noticeably colder than out in the sun, so I put on the gloves to compensate. I held a comfortable tempo and found walking with my light load and shoes just that – comfortable. Passing along the reindeer fence I crossed many a half-frozen mud patch, and then came out onto a very pretty field of high frosty grass that glistened in the sun. After that the mud started to thaw and I took some more care where I placed my feet.
Frosty trail start
Frosty trail continuation
Sun shining...
...upon the path
First wide view
Along the fence
Crossing
A series of shots...
...of frosty grass...
...glittering in...
...the blazing sun
After Buråstjärn there were a few actual puddles here and there on the path through the mossy forest, but no worries. I went out to look at Vålån in an opening when its noise made itself known, and since the sun was now warming I removed the jacket and the gloves before continuing. I met a single hiker and then passed by a couple of women who had also been on the bus, sitting at a well-utilized campsite with another good view of the stream. I took the next path out, passing over a mire that wasn't too wet and made close contact with the water myself before returning to the trail.
In the woods
Mireside
Buråstjärn
High above Vålån
Right down...
...at Vålån
Dry
Ottfjället
Where said trail came back to the brink (of Stensån, now) a bit later there was a tent with two people outside, and having negotiated a bit of wetness right by the water and crossed a stony brook I met another person. Next up was a series of duckboards over a large open area, and then the path went around the remainder of it atop a low dry ridge, coming around to the bridge over Stensån. There it was quite lovely, and I took a short break and refilled my flask.
A series of shots...
...of the gently flowing...
...waters of...
...Stensån
On the ridge
Stensån bridge spotted
Divided
To cross
The bridge had seen better days, with the wood starting to rot in places, but nothing of actual concern as of yet. On the other side I found myself on a nice, dry track obviously used by ATVs from time to time, and shortly I met two more people. I marched on in the dense and quiet forest, meeting another hiker, and out on the open heaths I got a feeling of early summer rather than autumn seeing as how most leaves had already fallen off both the trees and especially the shrubs. A wind was picking up, but I quickly reentered the forest, which was dark and cool as the trail slowly ascended.
Dual
Opening up...
...more and more
Grassy
Not very colorful
Uvberget (Owl Mountain)
Lill-Stensdalsfjället
Upwards
More desaturated areas
That old thing
More woods
Even more woods
Going around the large mire before Skaftet the path was severely eroded, and in places also quite wet, but with some care and side stepping I got past without getting wet myself. Once the trail started climbing in earnest I caught up with another pair who were just readying themselves to continue, and they "chased" me as I went on upwards. As the forest thinned out the wind returned, but it wasn't very cold. As it was now noon I started looking about for a place to stop myself, and opted for a campsite out on a hilltop just beside the trail with a good overlook of the surrounding heights.
Lill-Stensdalsfjället across the mire
Ascending...
...out of the forest
That cliff again
Lunch site
I put the jacket on against the wind as the others passed by, and at the same time another two people came down from the other direction. I had my lunch while the wind tried to decide what to do, and then remained seated enjoying the perfect day to the fullest. After a large reindeer had passed by I prepared to get going again, and since the wind was still appreciable I kept the jacket on and also took out the gloves. Once in the next strip of trees it was much more sheltered, and after passing two arms of a brook and a wet patch I started to feel a bit on the warm side.
Just about then, however, I reached the tree line and was greeted by the wind again, so no change of attire was necessary. I observed two people walking along the trail to Stensdalen, and two other people coming along that same trail a bit further ahead. I made my way across nice, dry heathland which before long turned into more marshy ground, where I tried to follow the driest parts. I passed another two people who were sitting up among some low hills next to a little brook above the trail, and by then I no longer had need of the gloves.
Pretty
Fluffy
Wide
Dry
Panorama over Kyrkstensfjället and Ottfjället
Panorama over the basin
Zoomed
Line
Lines
Ridge after ridge
Eastwards
To the trees
The views that had been growing for a while had now opened up in full, offering a vast vista of the full Vålådalen basin. Just great. I met a single man before passing yet another pair who were sitting on a rock beside the trail right at the start of another area of trees. I managed to get across the streams I knew intersected the trail in the area without hassle, and then it was back to skipping between the wet patches. I met a hiker who carried no pack and then it was duckboard time again before the ground turned stony.
Vålåvalen (Tjejnie)
To a tarn
From a tarn
Kroktjärnarna
More of Kroktjärnarna
One of Smällhögarna
Two of Smällhögarna
I caught up with another two people just at the first slope of Rovpe, and we had a brief chat before I went on ahead. Here the wind was much lessened and I was starting to feel somewhat warm, but the path was good and before I knew it I caught sight of the cottages a short distance ahead. The last bit was a stony affair, and when I arrived after 15 there didn't appear to be anyone about.
Open
Gruvsmällen
Rounding Rovpe
Goal in sight
The other two soon arrived, and soon thereafter the warden – who was indeed present – had come out to greet us. While he went through things with the others I sat down on the spacious porch and had some tea, enjoying the fair view over the open heathland and nearby peaks. More people were arriving from multiple directions, and after speaking some with the warden I went over to the old cottage where I had been placed – a first, actually, despite my many visits to this place – and took up position in a room which was thus far empty. It was now very fair outside, and I made a quick visit to Sturebadet, the natural bathtub a couple of hundred meters down along the southbound trail (it was cold, but refreshing), where a majestic reindeer trotted past.
To the porch
Gråsjödörren over yonder
Going down to...
...Sturebadet...
...right on the trail
Visitor
I spent some more time on the porch, talking with some of the other guests, and whenever the wind wasn't blowing it was warm indeed. I then went for a walk along the path between the hills behind the privy, finding some more reindeer and multiple ponds, eventually ending up on the Lunndörren trail which I followed back. It was now about time to start dinner, and when I was done I sat down at a table outside to eat. While I was sitting there a woman with a dog came from Vålådalen, and those were to be my companions inside later. More people were arriving during the early evening, many of which belonged to a group, but three were runners who would also be joining me on my side of the house.
More life
Main cottage
Old cottage and woodshed
One of many
This too
Colored
Back
Wilting
I remained seated outside until the sun passed behind Gruvsmällen, which made for decidedly cooler temperatures. Having taken care of some things I put on the down jacket and set out on an evening stroll up to the summit of Rovpe on a good footpath, and was rewarded with a very pretty evening light. I stood there taking in the scene until the colors faded, and then returned down noting a distinct chill in my naked fingers.
The runners were in the process of having dinner when I got back, and when I had a look at the thermometer it showed a meager 3°C, so it looked to be a cold night. I read for a bit by candlelight before the dog woman finally came inside, employing an on-site cage for the canine, and then I had an evening snack. The runners were debating where and how long to run on the morrow, for the aid of which I lent them my physical map. Outside darkness had fallen and I was just barely able to get back from the privy without artificial light before going to bed around 21:45.