Saturday 26/8

I took the winter trail path, setting rather a high tempo. By then it was almost entirely clear, and there was not much in the way of wind. I followed the footpaths at the ATV track intersections, noting once more how very dry everything was; there were signs all around of past moisture, but now there was none. At the bottom of the gap in the ridge where Čearpmatjohka should flow there was at least a puddle, which I stepped across on rocks.

Last clouds...

...leaving the massif...

...and the peaks ahead

Dry

Ridges

Sideways

Puddle

Up on the ridge proper I noted that the trees of Vávrratvuopmi were quite yellow, and the ones at the opening of Gáhpporuovddáš were turning as well. Walking was an easy but sandy affair, and I maintained my pace. Suddenly I caught movement a short distance ahead and was treated to the rather awesome sight and sound of a full-size eagle alighting from the side of the slope. Whoa!

Winding

Empty

More winding

Drying

At the bend where I had joined the ridge/trail on my way out there was a marked hill on the other side of which a number of reindeer were in attendance, but they didn't seem to mind much. I could also see some people atop the next, larger hill, who seemed to have stopped for a break. There were more reindeer on the ridge further ahead, and I waited for them to move off westwards before continuing. I stopped to speak with the other hikers on the hilltop, who were a trio of Swedish-speaking Finns on their way to Pältsa, and they also said that another group of five Finns was coming from Gappo.

Quadrupeds

Gáhpporuovddáš

More companions

Unwalked ridge

Passage

Blockage

In passing

After the hill the ridge climbed into a wide pass and levelled out, but only in the large scale for the loose gravel and sand turned to quite uneven ground with many a rock on the path. It was now very warm, so it felt good when a light wind finally appeared. As I approached Gáhppojávri the rocks grew sparser and the ground more heathlike, so the cumbersome bit wasn't very long. The lake was a perfect mirror, which also gave me a good perception of its depth; I had brought fishing gear with the specific purpose of trying this lake out.

Pointy Bárrás

Uneven

Ridge and hilltop behind

Further up

First glimpse of Gáhppojávri

An unnatural sound made me scan the opposite shore, where I discovered a/the group of five, and even though I couldn't see it the sound strongly indicated the presence of a small drone. I kept close to the edge of the water to continue investigating fishing spots, noting good depths until I reached a headland where it was rather shallow. This was also the case for the last section of the lake beyond that, so I made mental notes and decided to fish on the way back, instead returning to the trail in the here and now. By then it cut across nice heathland, upon which I met four people with very light packs.

Bealčán from another perspective

Side lake

Between the sides

Mirror

I crossed the dry outflow on a small bridge, noting that there was a fairly large reindeer-watching hut close by which was not marked on the map, and then climbed some rock steps up towards the border. Shortly before it I encountered a single lemming, right at the line were a couple of cyclists who headed down northwards, and just inside Norway was a tent. I covered the last little bit to the cute and exquisitely situated buildings of Gappohytta, from which the occupant of the tent was just returning, arriving myself around 11:45.

Another border crossing

Arriving at...

...Gappohytta

I checked out the place both outside and in, and found it to be very similar to Goldahytta, but in much fresher shape – especially the outbuilding. One clear drawback, however, was that the nearest water source was 700 meters away, and downhill at that, but you can't have everything... I had lunch on the porch of the older cottage; it was quite warm in the sun but a pleasant wind made it bearable. Having eaten I went out to the edge of the shelflike formation I was on to get a better view of Bárrás, Vassdalstinden et al and the valleys below. Back at the cottages I made an entry in the guestbook and then left for the lake.

Panorama from northwest to east from the edge

Vassdalsfjellet closeup

It was now very light so I put the sunglasses on as I returned alongside the water. Having passed the headland I descended the rather steep slope to the shore, which was a barely passable strip of rocks. Here I finally brought out the rod and started casting, getting good reach and no signs of bottom traps. There were several instances of fairly large fish breaking the surface further out, but even with my heaviest spinner I couldn't get that far. I did feel one clear bite at one point, but it came to nothing. The mirror was disturbed by a light wind from time to time as I made my way towards the far end of the lake, eventually calling it quits and going back up to the trail where the slope was at its lowest.

Reestablishing contact with...

...Gáhppojávri

New attempt

Broken mirror

From this higher vantage point I could see that the last bay was shallower and wouldn't have been much of an addition, so I chalked up another failed attempt and set off towards home. I met a single Norwegian just before the stony section, which I found a better way through this time around. There were some high veils in the sky but the power of the sun was undiminished, and with very little wind to speak of the heat was pressing.

Leaving the lake

Ridge start

Ridge continuation

Just before the large hill the sole which had previously come loose at the front did so again, so I taped it back on once more. Just then two cyclists came down from said hill, and my own subsequent passage of it was somewhat arduous in the stillness. Stepping more carefully than usual so as not to wear the tape overly I made good progress at the expense of a copious amount of perspiration, and when I approached the end of the ridge I saw the quintet further ahead on the other side of the gap.

From the hilltop

Next hill

Still on the ridge

Flat

Colored

Nearing the end

Meandering

To the bottom

I kept to the footpaths once more, meeting another two cyclists and then the quartet from earlier in the day who had obviously done the same day tour as me only in the other direction. Just as the quintet reached the guest cottage the tape finally gave way, and even though I was now quite close it was clear from a quick look that the damage was now more extensive, so I wound several additional rounds of tape around the front. The last few hundred meters then passed without incident, and as I walked up to the warden's cottage after 15:30 a noticeable wind picked up – a bit late, eh?

A more familiar view

This too

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