The subheading really captures the main feeling of this tour, for searching for snow was what I spent much of the time on the move doing. Advance reports and posted images suggested that conditions were comparable to those found two years ago, but as it turned out this was only partially true, and the large areas completely devoid of snow came as something of a surprise. But, as reported, everything worked out alright in the end anyway.

Another surprise was running into several acquaintances on the Eve, but this was obviously a much more welcome one. As expected, the layout of the new Stensdalen cottage was very well suited to accommodate large numbers of people at once (in total there were 44 persons present, counting both buildings), and its comfortable interior was a good match for the occasion, even if the dark season necessitated the use of a petrol-powered generator to service the otherwise solar-powered electric lights. Across the basin there had been "only" 26 guests in Lunndörren, and 7 in Vålåvalen, so it was obvious that the lack of snow (and probably the strong winds, too) had caused some people to abstain from venturing out – especially if they had had the misfortune of getting stuck with heavy gear out in the wilderness the year before.

As for the lack of snow, while it did make matters a bit more difficult than usual it was nowhere near a complete disaster, and I did manage to ski almost all the way around the basin – it felt good being able to complete the full circuit, and the stage between Vålåvalen and Lunndörren turned out to be the high-point of the tour. I did find the reports of its hardships exaggerated, but then again the snowing and blowing during the day before had probably changed conditions somewhat, which there were signs of – and there were often clear-cut lines between "no snow" and "ample snow", so like during the warm Helags Easter tour it was often a matter of following the terrain rather than the trail markers. In the end I was able to enjoy the beautiful, cold light much more than I decried the state of the ground – it was not unlike my previous trip along this stage, but with (a lot) less snow, and I considered myself fortunate to have timed that day so well.

The other stages were largely unproblematic, with the same caveats, and going down to Vålådalen from Lunndörren was a comfortable experience – and I got to find another old hut! Another thing that turned out well was my ski boots, which had been giving me ankle pains earlier, but a sole change had all but eliminated that problem – and they kept me both dry and warm throughout. Good! It was a shame about the damaged ski, though, but as mentioned I had been seeing signs of it for some time already, so perhaps it's simply time for a new pair, to go with the new(ish) boots now that I'm on amicable terms with them.

All in all this was a successful tour, despite what some people might have considered bad odds, and it felt wintery enough (especially at the Vålå cottages, with all the snow and frost) to satisfy my beforehand wishes. So, two years until the next one, right...?