Thursday 31/12

It was rather windy in the city, but upon arrival in Vålådalen it wasn't much to be reckoned with. The snow cover had varied between "nonexistent" and "ample" along the way, and now it was "ok". After a visit to the toilet at the fjeld station I set out at 09:30, wearing only one layer beneath the shell since I was to be sheltered by the forest most of the way.

Morning on the road

Morning in Vålådalen

I passed a quartet with a dog out on the first field, where grass was poking through just like last time, and once in the forest I realized that it was not yet light enough to have the sunglasses on. Shortly after The Crest I passed a couple who were adjusting their clothing, obviously not having made the same judgement as I had at the start, but after that I was alone. I maintained a good pace, resulting in a need to open up various zippers, and the wind remained a light disturbance in the air. Visibility was also very good, although there were large clouds drifting out of Lunndörren proper, obscuring Anarisfjällen.

First field

Clouds of dawn

Snow in the forest

View crest

Scant, but enough...

...snow on...

...the trail

Smällhögarna

Pretty light still

Clouds still

Lill-Stensdalsfjället and its cliff

The snow was good in among the trees – in fact, given the mild temperatures it felt like a cloudy spring day – and even though it was a bit thin out on the mires there were no problems. At the trail split to the Vålå cottages it was clear that the Stensdalen route was by far the more popular one judging from the tracks, and now that the branch I was on was reaching more open terrain the wind made itself known a bit more. Suddenly I spotted fresh sled tracks in the snow beneath my skis, and after the next bend I caught sight of what looked like a tent right beside the trail a short distance ahead, but as I neared it I realized that it was a wind sack.

Good for skiing

At the trail split

After the trail split

Just as I skied up a familiar face peeked out of it, revealing my fellow telemarker Helena and her partner Christer who had spent the night in a tent down at Stensån and were now also heading to Stensdalen. I learnt from them that another mutual acquaintance in the form of Marit, who was already there together with her brother, had reported no particular rush, which meant that I could relax a bit – getting a bed can otherwise be a concern this time of year. After a brief talk I went on up the next forest slope, emerging onto higher ground with less shelter, so the wind was at it again, but still not badly. Visibility was also still good, and when I came to a mire with a good view over the peaks in front of me around 11:45 I sat down for lunch against a rock.

Out in the open

Good view ahead

Here the wind was light, and there were even hints of sun, so it was a good break. Soon afterwards the snow turned scant indeed, and I adjusted my heading over the bumpy mires to make as much use of what there was as possible. Sometimes this led to other problems, and after Tvärån (Stårjenjohke) I found myself in a pickle or two when such roundabouts took me over hills and shrubs – but on the other hand the trail as such was completely bare at times. The wind was also increasing, and as I returned to the somewhat-snowy trail for the last stretch it escalated further, being quite strong as I arrived around 13:15.

Light at the lunch site

Light after the lunch site

Failing snow

Lill-Stensdalsfjället and a non-snowy trail

Hilly route

Last bit

There was very little snow around the buildings and on the northern slopes, as well as upon the imposing Lill-Stensdalsfjället, but further west things looked better. There was no one outside, but as I entered the new cottage I was greeted by the warden Birgitta and her daughter Sofia. A large group of 13 people, consisting of three Swiss-Swedish families, was currently on an outing, having been thwarted in their plan to go to Vålåvalen earlier due to the scant snow (they had very heavy sleds and a bunch of kids to handle).

I made a visit to the somewhat understocked shop and then moved into a currently empty room, after which more people started to arrive. The wind had grown worse so I remained inside until it was time for an early sauna, which I shared with my comrades who were now all present. There was no hole in Stensån's ice this time, but on the other hand the wind was strong enough that standing on the porch for a few moments was quite sufficient to cool down.

Is it winter?

Stensån and Lill-Stensdalsfjället

Bare heights

After that I rested in my bed, "together" with a couple of new roommates, listening to the wind whistling outside. Eventually the others came in to start dinner proceedings, and I joined in, managing to time everything quite well so that we could sit down together – and I was even treated to a fine whitefish starter. Another familiar face in the form of Gunnika was also present (as well as her likewise familiar dog Diesel), making a story for an outdoor magazine, so the group swelled to six. I finished with a bit of cheese-&-crackers, but as the meal had been rather full I only managed a little.

It was a very genial evening, although everyone was battling fatigue as the clock crept towards the midnight mark. The wind had decreased markedly, but when it was finally time to go out for the traditional toast it was back to strong, making it a chilly affair. The stars were out, though, and Orion was perfectly positioned just above the big cliff on Lill-Stensdalsfjället. Most people were quick to go to bed afterwards, and I was the last in my room to do so at 00:30, in the sheen of the moon through the little window above my pillow.

Dinner preparations

Dinner party