Saturday 2/1

I woke up rested after a good night's sleep, and remained in bed a while longer. It was now clear and cold – around –20°C – the full moon was out, and it was absolutely still. This necessitated a photo outing before breakfast, during which Lars came in to announce that one of the dogs in the other building had run off during the night, so everyone was asked to keep their eyes open. Now that the morning was well underway it was incredibly beautiful outside, and I had to go out for another photo round. After that everyone was packing, and once my roommates had exited I cleaned up and readied myself for departure; I was the only one to aim for Vålåvalen this day.

The moon was just about to set behind S Kyrkstensskaftet, and the scene was a breathtaking one, so not at all surprisingly there was a whole group of people (myself included) on a nearby little hilltop photographing away for quite some time. This was one of the very best mornings I have experienced in the fjelds thus far – if not the best – and the cold added to the sense of pristine beauty. Just wonderful, in the full sense of the word. Eventually, though, I had to tear myself away – and the moon had disappeared anyway – and clad warmly I set out in the midwinter splendor at 10:15.

The moon setting behind
S Kyrkstensskaftet

Stora Härjångsstöten

Ottfjället

Panorama over Lill-Stensdalsfjället, Östra Bunnerstöten, Stor-Stensdalsfjället, Kyrkstensfjället, and S Kyrkstensskaftet

Wide-angle panorama over the Vålådalen basin

The snow was a bit rough due to the cold, but not overly so, and since so many people had skied along the trail the past few days going was very easy – the frozen tracks were just fantastic. The same adjective applies to the view before me, with yellow-tinted fjelds on the horizon. There was no actual wind, but every once in a while a very light (and very cold) draft could be felt, and since it was as cold as it was I did not exert myself lest I get sweaty.

Just as I was about to start going down the slope to Lunndörrsån a few rays of the sun broke through, but that was the only direct contact I was to have with it all day – at all other times the fjelds directly to my left blocked it entirely. The stream itself was partially open, but I noticed a sled track that wound its way across, and I followed that while keeping careful track of the thickness and quality of the ice; the only problem was in fact a sizeable "ditch" at the far shore. Then I entered a nice-looking spruce forest, where contrary to last time the brooks were frozen, and after a while I came to the start of the long uphill slope that would take me out into the open again.

Going up was easy, and among the uppermost trees I met a couple of men in heavy clothing going in the opposite direction. Now the view, which had been hidden since the descent to Lunndörrsån, was back in full force – and this applied to the colors as well, for it still felt like dawn. On a rock just beside the trail a bit further ahead a couple of other people were sitting, and I spoke some with them before moving on and running into yet another pair within a minute. Shortly after that I selected a rock of my own and skied over to it, sitting down against it with an unobstructed view across the basin before 12:15.

First slope

The entrance to Stensdalen
(which is actually two valleys)

Ottfjället all in color

A bend

The entrance to Lunndörren proper

A few rays

Snowy

Another bend

Lit fjelds on the horizon

More

Ottfjället again

Eastwards

Westwards

While I ate two more skiers passed by on the trail, which meant that there were still two to come since I knew in advance that there would be ten people going to Lunndörren. I did not remain seated for too long because the deep cold crept up my feet and legs, and as I was in the process of breaking camp the last two showed up. The cold was also affecting the camera – or rather the camera's batteries – so after snapping the first shot below I took a very conservative and speedy approach to my photographic exploits, often trying to warm the unit up a bit with my hands before using it. Since I was feeling cold I picked up the pace, but it still took quite some time before my toes had warmed up again. After a stupendous tumble in the slope down to Tronnan I noticed a distinct rise in temperature, and now I felt comfortable throughout. The effect was more pronounced in the following forest, although it was coupled by a somewhat significant wind seemingly coming out of the valley.

View from the lunch site

Perfect track

Trondfjällen visible in a clearing

Birches

Having passed Gråsjöfjället I was treated to a great vista as I exited the forest again, with Härjångsfjällen and Gruvsmällen before my eyes. When I reached the confluence of Gråsjöån and Vålån I decided to make the most of the feeling of alone-in-the-wilderness I was enjoying, and broke off the trail. Here it was very cold, which really affected what little exposed skin I had. I skied upon Vålån a short bit, and then found my own way between the stream and the trail. Progress was easy for the most part, but at times I sank more than preferable.

Turning around I saw an intriguing light upon Vålåvalen proper – the redness of the setting sun combined with the many-colored winter sky and reflective snow almost made it look green. Soon the snow grew deeper, but as though to compensate the temperature also grew milder, and I had to both unbotton and slow down a bit lest I grow too warm myself. Turning around the base of Roupe I found better snow, and I ascended a little bit before going downhill again when I saw the Helags trail ahead. Rather than going all the way, however, I turned up again when I came onto a small ridge which led straight to the cottages, and I rounded the main building on its backside, coming to the entrance from the wrong direction (as it were) at 15:00.

Out in the open again

Vålåvalen painted in warm hues

Afternoon light...

...behind Luspientjaerhvie and Gåertiestjaerhvie

Leaving Vålåvalen behind

Stora Härjångsstöten and Gruvsmällen

Smällhögarna rising behind Roupe

The entrance to Gråsjödörren and my tracks

Bengt – who had been the warden two years ago as well – noticed my presence before long and came out to say hi. Before joining him inside for some glögg, however, I went to photograph a bit in the extraordinary light. I also learnt that it was in fact about –20°C still, which goes to show how quickly one gets used to such things – and that there must have been pockets of colder air along the way. I brought the remaining cheese and crackers to the table, and we sat talking and munching for a good while as the twilight deepened outside.

Before it got too dark I went out to the woodshed to fetch what I would be needing for the night and then fired up the heater in my room, which required a good deal of work – again the quality of the wood left something to be desired, and I'm not particularly fond of that particular type of heater either – but as usual the end result was perfectly satisfactory. I tended to the fire for a while and then went to start dinner, during which I kept an eye on both the fire in my room and in the kitchen, and then ate while reading in an SFK yearbook.

I remained in place reading after the meal, and Bengt made sporadic visits to check the state of the fire. Outside it was growing milder at a rate of perhaps a couple of degrees an hour, and it also appeared to be rather cloudy; I could not discern the outlines of any of the otherwise visible peaks. When I returned to my room the fire had gone out completely, but the temperature was good, and I lay down in my bed to read and rest. While I was doing so there was a sudden sound it took a few moments for me to place, but it was obviously the wind whistling in the chimney, and from then on it was windy more or less constantly.

I then went to have my evening snack and to listen to the evening forecast on the "common radio"; as expected it promised fairly strong winds for the morrow, but not so low temperatures. Now I could see some of that indirect moonlight upon the snow, and despite the sound it made the wind was not really that hard – yet. As I lay down to sleep at 22:15 I noted that the room had cooled off perceptibly, but not so much that any action on my part was needed.