Tuesday 31/12

Barely snow

A number of people disembarked in Undersåker, but cars picked all but one up, so he and I waited inside the station building for the taxi-bus to arrive. The snow cover seemed reasonably good the first bit, then disappeared almost completely, causing some mild alarm, only to reappear around Östra Vålådalen. I filled my flask at the fjeld station, noting that a cold shifting wind had come into being, and there were clouds hugging the mountains. I walked down to the field where the main trails start, since the car road in between was bare, and started skiing after 09:30.

There was ample snow for this activity, even though some higher grass was peeping through, and the bridge over Vålån displayed naked wood. Just before the trail turned up Vålåsen I passed a quartet of others who were apparently fiddling with something, so I couldn't be sure whether they were headed the same way or not. Going up was easy, with the thin layer of fresh snow that had fallen during the night providing good grip, and even though the depth of the whole cover was meager there was no actual shortage. Out in the open the wind made itself known, and I maintained a comfortable pace. In among the trees the snow was good and skiing was nice, and I went on until the trail split to Grönvallen before taking a short pause.

I thought I heard faint voices ahead, and immediately after I started moving again I came upon two women who relayed a message from Lunndörren: "It's quite full, so if you can and want to, feel free to continue to Vålåstugorna instead". Oh well, too late for that now. Out on the mires there were areas with ice that were easily circumvented, and soon more snow was brought by the increasing wind. I passed the next Grönvallen juncture, where the snow had started to cling to my skis, and stopped in a fairly sheltered portion of forest after a long stretch of mires after 11:30.

Vålån bridge

Skiable

Cloud light

Icy mire

Snow coming

Snow come

As I sat eating the snowfall intensified (hooray, sort of), and just when I left I spotted more people with dogs coming behind. The snow continued to be sticky at times – the temperature was now steady above freezing – and the dog people were catching up. More and more wind and snow hit me as I neared the mere that signals the start of the last slope up to the cottages, and I paused on its northern side for a bit. Visibility was very bad, especially since my glasses were wet from both perspiration and snow. I thought the others would overtake me for sure, but as they didn't I surmised that they were also pausing just behind. I kept to the western side of the ice where there was a bit more snow, and found the trail again at the southern end. Going up was easy – too easy, since the skis stuck quite admirably – even with the strong headwind, and I heard the smacking of the flagpole line in advance of catching sight of the cottages before 12:45.

Partially frozen

To cross

Arrival

There were people going out to ski despite the weather, and the place did not in fact seem full. Karin, a colleague from the warden course, was inside, and after a brief chat I got to stay in a room containing a group of four who had had their food'n'stuff brought by snowmobile. I took it easy in the kitchen, where a few others were making food, while outside the snow and wind petered out considerably. After another talk with Karin a couple of children arrived, having sprinted on ahead of their adult counterparts, and the place was now filling up. The people who had been out for a while were also returning, and a shopping spree followed (not for me, though). I had some cheese'n'crackers to sustain me over the imminent sauna, and then read while I waited for the ladies' turn to end.

Windy

Sauna

Saanta in the clear

Ottfjället

Dusk coming

Lunndörren proper over there

The sauna had been completely refurbished since I visited it last – and it was hot. Mmm! A visit to the hole-in-the-ice was a given, and it felt very good that the wind had stopped. There were people in the kitchen when I returned, as expected, but they were mostly finished with the stoves, so I could start my own preparations. A saucepan (in the exact literal sense) was freed in just the right time, and I could sit down to enjoy a fine meal, complete with dessert. Across the table was a woman who had been a teacher at my old high school, and we compared notes on her colleagues from back then.

My roommates had made a fire in order to draw some of the moisture out, but the result was a very warm space, so I let some fresh air in before lying down to read. A group of people had fled the conglomeration of the indoors and made a cooking fire across the frozen water, and were obviously enjoying themselves in the quiet evening. Later I sat down in the kitchen again, and was offered a bit of deep-fried cheese by the previous ladies. Outside all the stars were out, and with the lack of light pollution there were hints of the galaxy stretching across the sky.

I rested for a while in darkness, and then went out close to midnight. My roommates were sending up those little rice-paper lanterns that routinely generate UFO reports, and at the stroke of twelve everyone had turned off all other sources of illumination to enjoy the incredible night we were fortunate to have. I remained outside for a bit just gazing at the sky, and then quickly made my way to bed, being the first in the room to do so, as several of the others were continuing the social activities in the kitchen.