Monday 31/12

I slept soundly through the night, and on the obligatory morning visit to the privy I discovered that while Lill-Stensdalsfjället was cut in half by a cloud, Stor-Stensdalsfjället on the other side of the valley was in full view. The air was still and cold, and the tracks on the ground revealed that the snowfall had stopped shortly after I went to bed. During my breakfast the Lill-Stensdalfsjället cloud lifted, but the sky stubbornly refused to actually clear, and before I knew it a dense fog was approaching from the southeast. In a matter of minutes – perhaps even just one – it had rolled in and enveloped the entire area in mist, bringing a light wind with it. I packed up and paid up, and was ready to enter the haze after 10.

Semi-clear morning...

...that quickly turned misty

Despite the recent replenishment the snow cover was still rather thin in the open areas – courtesy of the wind, no doubt – but it was never impassable even though sometimes a short detour was preferable. One portion which was very bad, however, was a short but steep slope leading down to Stensån, plus the corresponding one leading up from it; there it might have been best to carry the skis. In the forest, however, there was ample snow, and since it was cold but not too cold my passage hardly made a sound; it was rather serene and enjoyable – and most wintery, especially with all the frost on the trees. The higher up I got the denser the fog seemed and the temperature also grew a bit milder; eventually I spotted some very light snow in the air as well. Just after I had passed Tvärån I heard voices, and a bit up the slope on the other side I met two other people coming from the Vålå cottages and we exchanged experiences for a short while.

The remaining bit to the branch point where another trail leads back to Vålådalen was similarly lacking in terms of snow, but after that conditions improved, and just then I met four skiers and two snowmobiles. It also felt colder again and there were even a few very weak but noticeable indirect breakthroughs of light in various places. I aimed for the old cabin above Kroktjärnarna, which I have visited several times before, where I stopped for lunch around 12:15. It had seen some minor repairs since last time, but otherwise it seemed as deserted as usual, so I sat in quiet on its porch, watching the clouds lift slightly over Vålåvalen proper, where more of the weak light appeared.

Once on the move again a very slow partial clearing process was in evidence, concentrated to the south and directly above, but towards Vålådalen things were dark and hazy still. Some distance along the trail I met one person with a dogsled, but she herself skied behind it tied in a line rather than let the dogs do all the work. Another snowmobile showed up in front of me, and then I turned around a bend and spotted one of the buildings comprising my destination before 14. The peculiar light was in effect there as well, but now the sky itself had been concealed once more. A sign on the wall told that the warden was out, and there was no one else present either.

Light approaching Smällhögarna

The trees growing sparser

One of Smällhögarna almost free

Looking north...

...and south

Frosty

First sight of the Vålå cottages

Indirect light

I walked around the "yard" in the fading light, checking out the older cottage which I had had no reason to do on previous visits. I then went inside the newer, larger building and chose a room which had clearly been occupied the night before, judging from the remaining warmth (the outdoor temperature was now -10°C). Soon a girl came in – she had spent the night and would remain for another – only to exit almost at once to do some work in the woodshed. As for me, I changed out of the skiing attire and started a fire in the common room, where the chill would soon set in. The warden then came in and we spoke for a while before another two arrived from Lunndörren, which was all the guests there was expected to be. I went to fire up the heater in my room – it was another of that kind I do not like, so again it took some labor to get right. Once it was burning nicely I went to join the others, who were having glögg and gingerbread in the common room.

Outside it had started snowing, but it was still windless. I tended to the fire in my room and played some solitaire, and then I prepared the chocolate mousse I would be having for dessert. Meanwhile the warden lit torches in strategic locations in the snow, creating the appearence of an actual yard. Later on the snowfall had passed on and the sky was sprinkled with stars; it was rather cold as well, and the atmosphere thereby produced was perfect for the (coming) occasion. The girl and I had our respective evening meals, and we were soon joined by both the other couple and the warden, and various lengthy discussions ensued. At one time I went to restart the heater fire, also noting that the stars were now in the process of being veiled. The amiable socializing went on, aided by various kinds of snacks and beverages until we all went out at a quarter to midnight.

The sky was mostly clear and off to the west there was a band of diffuse light which may or may not have been aurora borealis. To honor the occasion the warden had brought some fireworks, which were set off after the traditional 00:00 toast. Our blasts were answered from somewhere to the north, but we were unable to determine the source. Then another one of those very light snowfalls commenced, but other than that everything was completely still and tranquil, and just standing outside was... blissful, for want of a better word. It had to end sometime, though, and by 00:45 everyone was in bed.

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