Tuesday 1/1

Discounting a nightly visit to the outside I slept well, arising well after 10 since I was not going anywhere. At that time an easterly wind was blowing but the clouds were light and visibility was good – and increasing. The girl had already left, but in the common room I found the other three people present, who were just finishing up their respective breakfasts. Having done the same I altered the contents of my rucksack for a day tour; the weather seemed promising, but not in all directions. Both the couple and the warden were about to leave, and I decided to team up with the latter who would be going up into Smällhögarna, where weather conditions looked best.

Still frosty

Smällhögarna visible

More frost

Gruvsmällen

More of Smällhögarna

We got going before 11:45, with an appreciable tailwind. Above our heads there was some blue sky to be seen, and rents in the clouds allowed small amounts of the by then well-known indirect light to seep through. When we reached the start of the slope my companion put on climbing skins, but I had left mine at home so I had to make do with my skis only – which was not very difficult.

As we proceeded upwards the clouds behind us and to the southeast lifted a bit more, revealing Vålåvalen, Trondfjällen and Gråsjöfjället, but in the direction of Vålådalen it was as congested as before. The wind was also on the increase, and when we reached flatter ground conditions had worsened both behind and ahead. In the actual saddle between Gruvsmällen and the summit directly east of Vuelie Livkiesåajja everything was white, but we were soon able to discern Lievkiesåajja itself as well as its aforementioned partner. We quickly found a stone large enough to provide shelter from the wind, and sat down with our backs to it to eat at 13.

Going for Gruvsmällen

Cottages behind

Another of Smällhögarna coming into view...

...and another

Panorama over Gråsjöfjället and Luspientjaerhvie

Weak light on Smällhögarna

Going up

Mini-panorama over Vålåvalen, Trondfjällen and Gråsjöfjället

In the saddle

The summit of Gruvsmällen

Visibility oscillated while we sat there; sometimes everything was obscured and sometimes parts of Härjångsfjällen could be distinguished through the veil. We then continued around Gruvsmällen, going down a little at first but then mostly maintaining our altitude as we followed the bend of the mountain. Suddenly my companion spotted movement some hundred meters ahead of us, and having been alerted I too caught sight of a sizeable animal dashing up the slope. What we could make out at that distance together with the process of elimination yielded the most probable classification: wolverine.

As we continued with our circuit the wind hit us in full force and visibility took a turn for the worse again. This state of affairs did not last for too long, however; as we approached the route of the summer trail from Gåsen the lowlands emerged from the mist and the wind decreased. When the cottages came into view they were even painted in a welcoming light, and the last portion was mostly windless.

Going down

Smällhögarna again

Almost home

Closeup of one of Smällhögarna

We were back around 14:30, and found smoke coming from the older cottage – as expected the couple with the dog I had met on day 1 had arrived. By then Smällhögarna were out in full, together with a patch of sky, and I decided to leave my pack and go for a short ski tour up Roupe, the low rise just north of the cottages. As usual in that region I found a number of animal tracks – and some human ones, by ski proxy – but mostly there were large expanses of untouched snow and I always enjoy skiing in such areas. As for the weather change it was soon countermanded and there was some wind again. Dusk was also falling, so I did not go on for very long before finding my way back through the winding hills. After returning I went straight to the woodshed to collect/cut logs of more appropriate size for the heater, and then I finally entered the cottage.

Coming dusk

Untouched snow

Vålåvalen

Smällhögarna from Roupe

Towards Trondfjällen, which were hidden at the moment

Hilly

Wintery

I spent some quiet time reading while the weather continued to deteriorate, and when inside temperatures dropped too much for comfort I made a fire in the large heater in the common room; there is also a gas heater there, but it was playing "hard to get" at the moment. Off to the south there was a large area of clear sky that remained thus for quite some time, but the light was now failing quickly. I eventually managed to get the gas heater working as well, and then I had dinner followed by some of the cheese and crackers left over from the night before.

After this fortified meal I made another fire in the heater in my room, which was a much easier affair with the newly produced wood more suited for the purpose. Outside it was snowing and the wind was blowing, but even so some stars were to be seen in the firmament. I went on reading by candlelight, and then thought of turning on the radio that stood in the window. Chance had it that a concert with Esbjörn Svensson Trio (E.S.T., a Swedish jazz group) was just about to start, so I let them accompany the book as well as a few games of solitaire.

The rest of the evening was spent in this fashion until I felt the familiar craving for a snack, after having taking care of which I proceeded to bed. The wind had lessened somewhat but the gales were still hefty, and there were substantial amounts of snow in the air yet. Just the same the entire host of stars was in full view, and I dedicated a long while to window-based stargazing before actually turning in around 22.

Heat source

Two shots...

...of the common room