Thursday 18/4

At Storulvån

The regional train was on time, as usual, but unfortunately there had been a mixup with the transfer bus from Duved that left me stranded at the train station. After a series of semi-frantic developments involving an improvized taxi this ultimately resulted in a delay of about an hour for my arrival at Storulvån, which finally occurred at 10:30. Since the weather was clear and warm there were quite a lot of people on the various parking spaces along the way, but at the fjeld station itself most seemed to have left already. I had already completed all preparations, and set off myself as quickly as possible.

At the start the main track was mostly frozen, but after I had turned off towards Gåsen it became somewhat softer. I skied beside it anyway, where the snow was even better, and conditions were so far very comfortable. Wanting to vary myself I left the trail entirely while it was still out on the mires west of Handölan and headed southwards parallel to (but out of sight of) the stream. There were quite a few tracks heading to and fro in this area, which is very easily traversed in all directions due to the openness of the terrain.

Temporarily on track

Sylarna rising

Suddenly, however, I found myself at the edge of a large cornice marking the edge of the ravine of Lill-Ulvån. I found a passage nearby and reached the bottom without incident, crossing an entirely snow-covered stream. After that a very sparse forest took by, and here and there an old ski track provided a good directional guide. I maintained my distance from Handölan for the most part, and thereby also my altitude – and then, just as suddenly as before, stood at the edge of another steep slope, from where I could see people moving on the trail across the stream. Here I had to go upwards a bit before I could go down, after which I finally skied out onto Handölan and stayed there.

Lill-Ulvån (above)

Lill-Ulvån (below)

Handölan (above)

Snasahögarna

After a while I took to following the large track there, which eventually crossed onto the eastern bank after the Tjallingen bridge and the inflow of Tjallingån, employing a sturdy-looking snowbridge in an area where open water had otherwise started appearing. Around here I checked the time and found that the stage thus far had taken me no more than an hour, which was surprisingly fast even for me, but the light pack together with the excellent snow conditions made for extremely easy going. Now, however, I started going upwards at a somewhat slower pace, and as if to mark the change the sun took to passing into high veils every now and then. After touching upon the marked trail I went on above it, passing a line of trees to a bare hilltop where I sat down for lunch against a birch after 12.

Passing Tjallingen

Laptentjahke across...

..the semi-open Handölan

Going up...

...and leaving the trail

Helags in the distance

Hilltop (sans walkers)

I sat still for a while longer, observing the approach of a group of four down on the trail, and gradually the sun grew in power again. The next phase started out at a shallow upward angle, passing the last of the trees and going through or between the shallow grooves that litter the slope beneath Gåsen proper, which were all filled with snow (which has not always been the case). In the absence of wind it was rather warm, but as I ascended the northwestern outrunner from Gåsen the air started moving again, to my relief.

Skiers on the trail

Västra Bunnerstöten

Tjallingklumpen

The valley behind

Helags and rock

Sylarna and rock

Local ptarmigan

Climbing

Tjallingklumpen laterally...

...with Bunnerfjällen behind

Main rise of Gåsen (Gåasa)

Handölan's vale

As I continued in an arc approaching the summit from the west, the snow grew wetter and more adhesive, but higher up there were some slippery parts which had still not melted. The last steeper section was hard and bumpy, which gave way to soft and bumpy as the ground levelled out, but it was back to hard again when I reached the summit at 14:30. There was no one else there and looking around there was a pronounced distance haze in several directions, but as I watched it slowly started to lift.

Clockwise: Härjångsdalen, ...

...Stora Härjångsstöten, ...

....Helags, ...

....Sylarna, ...

...Handölan's vale, ...

...and Bunnerfjällen

Ascender

Having seen no movement whatsoever I eventually set out downwards, aiming directly for the Gåsen cottages. The first bit was wavy and tricky, but then it got softer and more even and I could employ some makeshift telemark, carefully watching the damaged ski edge. A snowmobile transport was just leaving as I descended the last, steeper portion, which provided more amiable telemark conditions, and I also spotted a single skier leaving the cottages with a northward heading. I came down after 14:45, and upon gliding over to the warden's cottage I found that its occupant was out on a day tour – and neither was there anyone else present.

Descending...

...to the Gåsen cottages

Going over to the main cottage I noted that the premises had been cleared by snowcat fairly recently, because – as always – the buildings would otherwise be buried in snow. Gotta love this place. I claimed a bed in a suitable room until further notice, and before long the warden returned and came over. We talked for a while outside in the perfectly still – and now once again almost clear – afternoon. Apparently several firewood heaters in the area had been condemned by a chimney sweep inspection, but all so affected had since been replaced so everything was up and running again.

Newer cottage

Older cottage

Sylarna

The trail to Vålåvalen

Back inside I changed out of the skiing clothes and relaxed for a while, after which four and then two people arrived from Helags, so I took the opportunity to go over to the shop and flash my warden card as "payment". Having done so I talked some more with the warden until another quartet came in, after which more conversations with the earlier guests followed. More people were also arriving, and now the veils were returning in the sky as well, but the sun still held sway. Since I was rather hungry I started preparing and eating dinner in the common kitchen, during which even more people showed up.

New arrivals from Helags

Old cottage and
Stora Härjångsstöten

I spent some time looking over the map and resting, almost dozing off after the day's exertions, and then went out for a bit when the clouds appeared to be breaking apart anew. Another snowmobile transport arrived carrying the warden's family, and more skiers arrived as well, but there was no real crowd. I read and rested some more in my room, of which I was still the sole occupant, and after the sun had disappeared behind Gåsen I went for another photo walk, which was appreciably colder without direct solar radiation. The rest of the evening was spent similarly, and even though the colorful ending of the day I am used to here did not quite materialize this time, the full moon gave another character to the oncoming dusk. By 21:45 I was in bed, as were most of the other guests.

Sun over Sylarna

New cottage filling up