Thursday 21/8
Saltoluokta
After a night of snoring (not mine) I arose to a morning with a partial low cloud cover, but no rain. Breakfast was very fine, though, and outside things were getting lighter. I packed up and checked out and then just took it easy inside, looking around the classic place, and eventually set out for a walk around 11:45.
This time I did not go over to the adjacent Sámi encampment like I have in the past, but rather walked the path directly up onto the sand hills southwest of the station. Lulep Gierkav was now all in the clear, but Nieras was capped by clouds – and further off to the west through the valley everything was clearer as usual. I continued up to the highest open hilltop, and then took a smaller path that led into the forest above, which contained lots and lots of blueberries and lingonberries. I came out onto another ridge with a perfect view of Sjöfallsdalen, from which I both heard and saw three rough-legged buzzards circling above the trees. I carefully made my way down the sandy slope, relying heavily on the walking stick, and then ate my way back through blueberry-riddled dry forest of the more stunted variety.
This little outing had taken no more than half an hour, and I relaxed a bit in the service building before preparing a lighter lunch. People were arriving from both Kungsleden and the boat, replacing those who had left in the morning – which was most of them. I spent some time in the lobby of the main building, and was hailed by Gabriella who is the new cottage manager in Abisko – in other words, my closest boss, or as close to one as this type of arrangement allows. I had a lengthy conversation with her about the past season and some general opinions regarding the field, and then it was time to go get the pack and walk down to catch the afternoon boat. The clouds continued to lift as I passed Láŋas once more, giving me a nice enough view as I left the northern fjelds behind for the summer.