Monday 9/4
I slept really well, despite the Swiss man's snoring, and I stayed in bed until 07:30. The weather continued to be nice, although there were a good deal of clouds in the eastern sector; a medium westerly wind was blowing and it was rather cold. Quite a few people were already about to depart as I sat down to breakfast, and Hillevi came in to relate the weather report to the remaining parties. She was then "relieved" by Sören, the presence of whom had been requested by a pair who were aiming for Nallo – he has some experience in that matter, and seeing as how I had gone that way not a fortnight earlier I could fill in the blanks with reasonably fresh observances. An increased cloud presence in the northeast followed as I packed the last things and prepared to leave, which I eventually did around 9.
Giron below the ceiling
Njuikkostak hitting the ceiling
I skied in clearly defined tracks going towards the Sámi encampment, which after a bit had been partially destroyed by the snowmobile from last night – again, this kind of wanton behavior certainly does nothing to mend the currently frosty relations between skiers and drivers. I turned up the slope towards Bajip Čazajávri just before reaching the encampment, getting quite a good grip in the snow, following segments of old tracks every now and then. All the while the clouds were lifting, albeit very slowly, and off to the south and west the celestial blue was unbroken; the wind had also died down almost completely. Up in the wide and gentle pass itself I came upon some very clear tracks, and reaching the crest of the slope that marks the start of the impressively large Visttasvággi was a quick task. I stood on this crest for some time, looking out over the magnificent landscape that spread out before me, and the clouds were still in the process of dissolving.
I had a nice run down in very good snow, and once on the bottom I skied in the middle of the valley in old tracks made by both skiers and snowmobiles. Then the sun finally broke through, and as if on cue the last clouds dissipated. There was a light tailwind as I skied on in the warming air, and before the reindeer-watching hut beneath Unna Visttasčohkka I followed a ski-only track onto the partially open Visttasjohka. After this hut the snow on the frozen stream was no more, so it was down to ice for a while, with patches of thin snow cover here and there. Having passed about half of the length of Bogičohkka I saw a large rock off to my left at 11:00, and that I chose for my lunch camp; the northerly wind had increased and the rock was most appropriately aligned with a wide, flat side facing south.
Njuikkostak in front
Clouds settling around Giron
Farewell to Alesjaure
Weak glint
The cottages, Ážik and Guŋgar
Unna Visttasčohkka
Gárddečohkka – last look back
Moskkumoarhmá across the pass
Nearing the start of Visttasvággi
Panorama over upper Visttasvággi, showing Moarhmmávárri, Bogičohkka,
Vássačorru, Reaiddáčohkka, and Unna Visttasčohkka
Clouds hanging over Moskkumoarhmá...
...but not over Unna Visttasčohkka
In the valley
Clouds lifting over Njuikkostak
Lovely land
Siehtagas coming into view
This spot was also well chosen for the exceptional views it offered, and it was all I could do to just sit and process the ocular stimuli for a good while before bringing out the food. Outside the shelter of the rock the wind was a force to be reckoned with – it could not be labelled strong, but neither was it light nor warm – but on the lee side I was at perfect ease, losing myself in the immaculate, serene grace under a dazzling sun. Time itself lost its meaning, and I concluded that no, it does not get any better than this.
Down the valley
At rest
Up the valley
Once on the road – or stream – again going was easy (more snow) and after a bit the tracks broke away, winding their way over mires and through thickets before returning to Visttasjohka. There they split into two routes, one going across what in summer is a rock field, and one following the stream, and seeing as how the snow cover was scant I chose the latter. Here the effects of the wind were more apparent, and the snow that remained was considerably harder than before.
Where the stream makes a sharp bend to the east after Unna Vistasaš the mire straight ahead had too little snow on it to be passable, so I stuck to the course of Visttasjohka. The northerly wind was rather strong and chilling, and underneath my skis it was hard and icy, but every once in a while the still extant tracks would go up into the brushwood on the eastern side where it was much better. I continued this up/down cycle for a few iterations, and then I spotted the cottages some distance ahead. The last part was all ice, and riding on the wind I came to my destination before 14:15
The bend behind
The cleft(s) of Boginjira
Siehtagas and the sharp northeastern outrunner of Šielmmáčohkka
Approaching the next bend
Bogičohkka
The sharp ridge of Vássačorru
Bossosčohkka proper
Unna Vistasaš and the entrance to Unna Visttasvággi
Up
Down
The Siehtagas glacier
Lower fjelds ahead
More of Unna Visttasvággi
Nállu appearing
Over-the-shoulder look just before...
...spotting the Vistas cottages
Stuor Reaiddávággi and the striking shape of Nállu
Closeup of Nállu and Čeakčabákti
Nállu and Siehtagas
A note on the warden's door informed me that he was visiting Nallo, and the site seemed deserted otherwise as well, so I installed myself in the larger cottage. When I returned outside I noticed a lone man with an Irish setter down by the other cottage; he may well have been hiding there all along. A couple with three dogs and a sled also appeared on the other side of the bridge, and after some fiddling they managed to carry the sled over. I spoke some with the three of them – the man with the setter was the intended recipient of my message, although he had already surmised its contents – during which a helicopter landed on the flat region over on the other side of the stream, unloading three guys with alpine equipment and much luggage.
I parked myself outside the main cottage and read in the sun, but after a while the unabating wind began taking its toll and I returned inside. Another helicopter run carried more alpine skiers (they were going to Nallo on the morrow, intending to spend quite a few days there going up and down the steep mountainsides in the area), and I also saw two skiers with dogs coming from Nikkaluokta down by the stream, but they continued on somewhere after a short pause. I started a fire, both to dry my ski boots and in anticipation of the coming night, and then another couple came from the north; I hadn't seen them before, though. The alpine group took care of all firewood-related work, and I went back outside to talk some more with the dog people.
While chatting we sighted a single skier appearing up in Stuor Reaiddávággi, apparently on the way down, and as he eventually crossed the stream and came up to where we were standing he revealed himself as the touring warden. We spoke for a bit with him in a lessening wind before he went up to the other cottage to check on the group; there was also a newly arrived fellow standing on the far side of the bridge, but he showed no signs of moving in any direction. Myself, I went inside to change clothes, and ultimately the immobile fellow saw fit to come in as well. Some thin veils had appeared in the western sky, but it was very fair still, and with the slowly diminishing wind it was a splendid late afternoon. I read for a bit and talked about Kebnekaise with the couple, and then the three of us had dinner while the other man rested.
Classic shot of the main cottage
Upstream Visttasjohka
Photo sequence of the sun...
...passing over Stuor Reaiddávággi...
...eventually setting...
between Nállu and Siehtagas
Later on the warden – Bruno – came in to collect payment, and we talked for quite some time about everything fjeld, Keb and STF. Apparently there are advanced plans for another cottage further down Visttasvággi, which would cut the now overly long stage between the current cottage site and Nikkaluokta in two, thereby increasing the accessibility and attractiveness of the region and relieving some of the strain put on Kungsleden. The immediate project, however, is a sauna in Abiskojaure, and as far as I am concerned both are very worthwhile investments.
By the time he left for the other cottage the wind had petered out completely, and the evening was just wonderful. I read some in my bed and then rested, and in the last light around 20:30 a man came in from the south; he had skied all the way from Nikkaluokta, starting at noon and mostly following the path of the summer trail – something he said was rather cumbersome. I had my evening snack while the new guy ate, and then went to bed as early as 21:15, seeking an early start the following day – I intended to take the Vistas-Nikkaluokta stage in one go too.
Dusk in Stuor Reaiddávággi
Bálggástakčorru
Night falling