Kaitumjaure at last! Having visited it several times in winter I was very much looking forward to finally seeing it in summer, which I now got the chance to do. A very beautiful place it is, perfectly situated overlooking a stunning lake in a stunning valley – and the wildlife angle isn't bad either. It also just so happens that, as I find it, the best view one has in these parts when sticking to Kungsleden is in fact that from the cottages. Like Kutjaure, this is a place where one can (and does) spend long periods of time just sitting on the doorstep looking out over the vista at hand. The weather was generally good, and even when it wasn't really fair it did not rain much, except for a few sharply bounded instances of downpour. From what I heard on the radio the weather was considerably worse much of the time in almost every other part of the country, so I counted myself lucky.

As mentioned at the start I had some apprehensions regarding the effects of the lingering snow, and once those were alleviated the glass-half-empty part of my mind turned to the next bump in the road towards Full Enjoyment®: the lack of summer colors. When I saw those buds apparently on the verge of bursting after my first sauna session right at the beginning I hoped for a speedy remedy, as it were, and was rather disappointed when those hopes were not delivered upon. The situation was initially similar to that in Unna Allakas a couple of years ago, but then I had the weather on my side to hasten things along. Not so this time, and I harbored a good deal of mild frustration under the surface during those first few weeks when the low shrubs simply refused to get with the game.

As a result I delayed going for longer day tours for much longer than I normally would have, despite good opportunities weather-wise, simply because I was desperate (well, sort of) to maintain a "high standard" of photogeny, ocular as well as technological. On the other hand there is something to be said for following the vegetation's struggle against its harsh living conditions, and seeing its ultimate triumph – and I'd wager that my perception of the full splendor later on was heightened because of it. Another thing is the relationship with the mosquitos – Kaitumjaure is rather infamous for being quite a bad place in that regard, which I got to experience towards the end, so the first three or so weeks were a real blessing when viewed from that perspective.

Returning to the day tours, I had some loose map-based plans beforehand, some of which I tossed out, amended, or added to once on site. I didn't do as many as expected, but neither did I feel much need to – again, just staying put was often very rewarding. The ones I did do, however, were good indeed, and I heartily recommend visiting both Sáŋarčohkka and Leaibečeabetčohkka. That last one upstream Gáidumjohka was a bushy business, but the view of the valley from Sáŋaroalgi was just perfect – and I'm glad that circumstances allowed me to do it, even if it was by a hair. I've never been in a situation with multiple wardens before, and this was only a few days, but it was pretty handy.

Finally, I do prefer the more quiet nature of working in a place like Kaitumjaure, despite its sitting right on Kungsleden – it makes for a more personal atmosphere. Many were those who came from the north and commented upon how less crowded everything was compared to the much more frequented parts around Kebnekaise and along the northern part of the trail – and that the trail itself was in better condition here. This part of Kungsleden, with its deep, lush valleys, exquisite lakes and high plateaus is unjustly overlooked, and deserves to be (re)discovered. Give it a try – you won't regret it!