Monday 4/8
The early night brought a bit of wind with it, and this remained early next day as well. I managed to "oversleep" and did not get up until almost an hour later than I had planned, but it was not like I was in any particular hurry anyway. When I did get up it was no longer raining, but the clouds had not lifted at all. I donned the hiking garments, packed up the last things and went to have breakfast in the company of those who had also arisen. Janne had received word that the helicopter flight would take place this forenoon, so he had started packing the large fabric containers used for that purpose; the garbage room was now so stuffed that it was a great relief to get rid of it all, and this transport run also meant that my own box would probably find itself in Vålådalen even before I arrived there myself. I finished up inside and cleaned the room, and then I helped Janne exchange a gas canister (heavy, those are). We exchanged a few final words, and then I started the trek back to civilization at 10:15.
There were minuscule amounts of precipitation in the air, but not enough to warrant anything heavier than the wind jacket. I had apparently done a good job with the packing, for the rucksack did not feel very weighty at all, and walking was easy. Since the land had been so dry for so long before the rain hit the condition of the trail was OK, with only some wetter portions, and nothing which required special attention or circumvention. The semi-high vegetation transferred quite a bit of moisture to my legs, and while the hiking trousers can withstand a fair bit such continuous onslaught is beyond their capacity. The fabric is, however, also very quick at drying, so once out on bare land it did not take many hundreds of meters before the feeling of dampness disappeared. The clouds remained low and there was a bit of wind on and off, and all in all it was quite comfortable.
Just before the Stensdalen trail split I came across two people who were in the midst of adjusting their packs, and up there on what is a great view point in clear weather I could see that around and beyond Lunndörren as well as Vålådalen itself there was a bit of sunlight, but the only change in the cloud cover was that it seemed to have gotten closer to my head. It actually felt rather good to let the forest enclose me once more, and the undergrowth was noticeably higher and denser now compared to the walk up. A bit further down a little brook had sprung into existence on the path itself, and I walked in it for quite a while before it took another route between the trees. These trees soon grew in height, circumference and age, and I had this acute sensation of being a solitary visitor in a great realm – up among the high fjelds you can see that you are the only human for many miles, but in the deep forests you feel it. When I reached the ruined hut around 12:15 I thought that it would do very nicely as a lunch camp, and acted accordingly.
Farewell!
"Thank you for your visit"
Low clouds...
...everywhere
Vålåvalen touching the ceiling
Light to the east
A look back
Last bird of prey
Closeness of cloud
Still lighter in the east
In(to) the forest
A bit more light
In a clearing
Deep(er) forest
Arriving at...
...the ruin
There was a bit of mosquitos buzzing about, so I applied some repellant, but since it was not cold I never bothered with an extra sweater or suchlike. I heard the sound of a (the) helicopter in the distance, and more nearby there was the sound of a bell-equipped reindeer. Towards the end of the break I heard the chopper again; the sound was approaching at first and then it faded into the distance. Back on track it felt a bit cold for a while, but soon things got comfortable again. Soon enough I was at the Stensån bridge, and the stream now held noticeably more water than during my last passage. Not long thereafter I met two people carrying almost nothing at all, so they were obviously on a day tour from Vålådalen.
Then the forest changed character from boggy to dry, and the path turned into a wide almost-road. I met two more hikers at the very same place where the quartet had been sitting on my way up, a single shortly thereafter, and then a group of five. When a reindeer fence appeared on the righthand side the path turned into a collection of small lakes, and I took to making little leaps back and forth between the edges to avoid the worst. Just after that portion I ran into three more people the shoes of whom did not seem suitable for what lay ahead of them, and then another quartet at the stream below the last long slope. On its crest I could now see Smällhögarna in full, and Lill-Stensdalsfjället was out in parts as well. The time was about 14:30 when I emerged onto the last field, and minutes later I reached the fjeld station.
Passing Uvberget
Line forward...
...and backward
At the bridge
Another shot of Uvberget
Ex-tree
Lill-Stensdalsfjället from the last crest...
...and Smällhögarna from the same (now visible)
Light upon Anarisfjällen
Target in sight
I went straight to the reception to check in, immediately laying eyes upon the couple who had spent the night in Vålåvalen two days ago, and there was also another guy close by who had passed me by recently. Having been allotted a room I went there to dump my stuff and call Helena to arrange a meeting later that day. As I then walked over to the sauna the sun was breaking through at last, and during the session – which was spent with fjeld-talk with the abovementioned guy and two more single men – it was quite nice outside. However, when I was done the sun had had time to hide itself again. The bastard. Anyway, I then went to check the menu and times when that menu was in effect, running into the three women from last night. Afternoon tea followed, and then Helena showed up to relieve me of various things. When this was done I went to the main building and read in today's newspaper for a while before entering the restaurant.
I was placed in a side room (the two pictures immediately above), and after a while a few more people were shown in. Outside the sky was halfway clear, the clouds were all above the fjelds in sight, and sunlight played over the land in changing patterns. Dinner was fine indeed, and I allowed myself a dessert too. I remained seated for a while afterwards and then went out for a round, but it did not take long before the sun was clouded once again. I therefore returned inside to read this and that in the cozy common area, feeling decidedly tired. Now all clouds were finally withdrawing, and while the evening was fair it was not very warm. I read some more in my book (appendices, you know) and had an evening snack, and then I went out again for a last stroll before bedtime. It was dead calm and very nice, and it was with great contention that I lay down to sleep after 21:45, setting the clock with a good while to spare before the early bus to the homebound train on the morrow.
