Thursday 14/8

In the morning the clouds held sway, but it seemed to be clear further off to the south. I was the first to arise at 07:15, and once Anna was also up I snuck a listen to the local forecast, which was inconclusive enough that I leaned towards leaving. As I packed up showers started coming out of Stuor Reaiddávággi, as usual, but then things stabilized and more and more of the sky became visible. Two tenters had just left, heading for Gaskkasvággi, and with the improving conditions it was now certain that I would soon do the very same thing. I finished up my last few tasks, dumping some more stuff in Anna's lap, and then cleaned myself out. Just as I was readying for departure there were some early arrivals, and after chatting some more I finally left at 10:15.

Since it was fairly warm and the rain seemed to be elsewhere for the time being I wore no jacket, and the forest was mostly dry and pleasant as well. The brooks were low indeed, and overall it was a nice walk through a woodland shifting into autumn. I met a single hiker going the other way out on an open stretch, where the view confirmed that the weather was indeed improving all around. As I passed close by Visttasjohka there were more flowers holding out their claim on summer, and then the sun started breaking through the clouds.

Leaving

Through the forest

Still cloudy

Sparser

Bálggástakčorru across a mire

That view once more

Fairer

Park-like

Duopmačohkka

Unna Reaiddávággi

On the other side of the bridge the trail passed over hilly land covered in blueberries, and the view up the valley just got better and better. From this perspective the slope up Njunni seemed fully OK, but before I could start that ascent for real there was more forest to pass. This forest was also of the leafy variety, and even though it had not yet turned (much) colorwise, the feel of autumn was quite present. The trees gave way to stony open ground, after which it turned into a varying mix of the two. When I reached a small brook just below the tree line after noon I stopped for lunch, having just spotted the other two making their way up the exposed slope above.

Panorama upvalley from the western side of the bridge

To go up

Visttasvággi up

More forest

Lone rowan

This spot was well chosen, with a very inviting vista of Visttasvággi. As I sat there upon a rock things got fairer and fairer, and most of the break occurred in sunlight. Eventually, however, a mist started to grow around Šielmmáčohkka, and soon another one was creeping out of Unna Reaiddávággi as well, so I thought it time to get going. I had not walked many meters before the first drops started falling, and when they increased in frequency coupled with wind I sought out the shelter of a large rock, which together with the rucksack's rain cover could bear the brunt of the shower. I remained there for some time, adjusting my stance for comfort, but in the end the sustained intensity of the rain made me take out the rain jacket after all. It was not long, however, until things started to get lighter up the valley, and soon the rain moved on.

Lunch view

Vássanjunnji across the valley

Ruomasčorru

Rain!

I still kept the rain jacket both against the wind and any subsequent showers. The faint rainbow that had appeared below me got stronger with the altered angle from my ascent, and there was indeed another mist coming out of the side valleys further north. I followed a set of smaller cairns slightly below a line of larger ones, but went up to the latter when the former dwindled. After that the rocky ground made it difficult to see any of them, but the general heading was never in doubt, especially since visibility was unhampered. Once I reached the crest the trail was clear again, and the plateau itself was nice enough with mostly grass. Ahead clouds were clutching the higher peaks, but overall conditions were good.

Panorama over Visttasvággi and the rainbow

Njuovččagaskkat

More rain

On the crest

Njunni ahead

Upon Njunni

Another rainbow

The next crest was similarly rocky, and the view inwards was striking even in its current clouded state. The way down was pretty steep and I took it easy, catching up with the others – who were taking it even more easy – after the steepest portion. After a brief chat I walked on ahead, heading straight into another shower that came out of the valley. I found Gaskkasvággi to be rather pleasant in these parts, reminding me of the Vássaloamijávri path, and here there were quite a few flowers still in bloom which had already passed down at Vistas. Now the mist was dissipating, and after passing a series of small brooks (and a few reindeer) I came to the large suspension bridge over the not-to-be-toyed-with Gaskkasjohka, the silt content of which was obviously high. I continued to the nearby shelter, which is hidden from view from the bridge due to the distribution of hills, and dumped the pack by its wall at 15:15.

Next crest

South

Descending into Gaskkasvággi

Other direction

V-shaped

Rain passed

At the bridge

Reaching the shelter

I looked inside and found that one of the usual wooden cots was missing, but otherwise the little building seemed to be in fairly good condition. I walked around looking for suitable campsites, and settled on a dry one a short distance further west, close to another little brook. Another mist was approaching from the inner valley, and I worked quickly, but the shower had already started by the time I finished the preliminary pitch and ducked inside the shelter. The shower turned out to be quite an intensive one, but at the end of it the sun was back out, and I could finish tenting procedures. There were more drops in the air, and I spent the time inside the tent while Niibbáš was emerging more and more from the ever-present mist.

Camp

During and after dinner the rain continued to varying degrees, and it was some time yet before the clouds started breaking up once more. I mostly took it easy, reading and listening to music, and went out for a few short walks when I felt like it. I didn't see the other pair, though, and the shelter was still empty. The clouds clutching the peaks refused to let go, and the wind was rather cold. As the last act of the day I picked a few cloudberries I had just discovered, intending to have them with my breakfast porridge the next day, and after a short bit of improvised calisthenics to get my temperature up I crawled into the sleeping bag around 22:15.

Niibbáš

Shelter with higher clouds

Again, with Gaskkasčohkka

Evening light

Evening moon