Sunday 10/8 – Wednesday 13/8
Chilling
Sunday 10/8
The morning clouds were low and extensive, but there was also some sun and sky. The kids were filing in to make use of the shop, making the little vestibule quite crowded. When all was said and done I had some restocking to do, as well as emptying of garbage containers, and then set about loading up the woodshed. While I was so occupied a French couple stopped by and asked me to identify a possible wolverine they had photographed some kilometers down the valley – and I could do so confidently, for it was a very clear picture of the elusive creature. Good for them!
Light in Unna Visttasvággi
Stacked
Another pair of Brits also shopped before moving on, after which two Swedes came down from Vássaloamijávri, and after some fiddling I managed to produce the right fuel for their thirsty stove. After a substantial shopping session (and my lunch) they moved on, and then I was visited by a Swiss couple for a while. The clouds had started to lift and break apart, but the air was rather chilly. A slew of helicopters also passed back and forth overhead, in all likelihood servicing the Fjällräven Classic race that was in progress out on Kungsleden.
Just after dinner a quintet arrived, and since they appeared to be rather new at this I gave them some pointers before they continued a little bit towards Nallo, taking me up on my advice to stop at the far side of the heath. There were some more arrivals during the evening, all of whom opted for a bed. As it got later the failing light got prettier, and when I went to bed after 22 only a few hanging clouds remained.
Shrouded
One of many
More clouds...
...caressing the mountainsides
Monday 11/8
The next day started with low fog and still air, but the sun soon exerted its power and pushed through. People slowly got on with their business, two of whom were Swedish-speaking Germans who were to go on a day tour in the direction of Nallo. The weather was improving, so I decided to go for a little lunch walk myself at 11:45.
I walked across the campgrounds, which were empty at the moment after having been occupied during the night (as always), and then cut across the open heath towards Visttasjohka. I walked up to an area where rocks had been exposed by the receding water and sat down to eat on a good patch between the low shrubs. The sun had been clouded for a while, but as I got up again it reemerged. I followed a thin line of low trees up to the closest Nallo path and returned by way of this around 12:30.
Flat
Shore
Light
There were three people outside who wanted to shop, and a bit later one more stopped by. There were some light showers but also a fair bit of sun, even though the temperature was not very high. In the evening I was surprised to see movement in the stream, which turned out to be a couple of packraft travellers who were just making landfall under the bridge – with some difficulty.
Bálggástakčorru formation
Paddlers
A small group of hikers then arrived asking about transport to Nikkaluokta and/or Kebnekaise, being in a bit of a hurry, and just thereafter another man made a similar inquiry due to his finding the terrain difficult and not wanting to walk through the rest of the valley. I explained the situation and options, and left them to discuss it amongst themselves and, if necessary, with the police over the assistance phone. In the end they did order a chopper for five, and it arrived within half an hour in the beginning dusk, reducing my guest numbers by about half.
Tuesday 12/8
Rain fell during the night, but it had stopped by morning. After everyone had left – and some early shoppers had passed by – I set about preparing for my own departure, packing a box of things I would not be needing in the near future and making ready some things that I would. After lunch more rain came, and again I took advantage of it and fired up the full incinerator.
Clouds...
...all around
Reindeer on the heath
Fuming
As I started my last bread baking session a group of people came in for a break and some shopping, but unfortunately for them the rain just got worse the longer the afternoon progressed, and the next set of arrivals therefore wanted to stay. After dinner the rain petered out, but the arrivals did not (yet), so by the end of it both cottages were filled with garments hung up to dry. It was getting windier and showers started showing up again, developing into another bout of continuous rain that lasted most of the night.
Wednesday 13/8
This the last (full) day on site started out cloudy but without rain, and soon the wind was back. There had been a couple of late arrivals, and they were still in bed in the previously unoccupied booth, so I left them be and instead started a last clothes wash. There were a few drops in the air towards the end of it, but nothing more came of that. I started moving out of the warden's room, which involved quite a bit of going back and forth, while the weather improved outside.
Panorama of the full cottage view
Almost all ice now
Not long thereafter Anna, who was to relieve me, arrived, having camped at Vassakĺtan, and we talked for quite a bit outside before she started fetching her own stuff from storage. Just after lunch a stronger shower came out of Stuor Reaiddávággi, as they were wont to do, and I brought the drying laundry inside. As it passed I finished up in the warden's room and cleaned the floors, and then spoke some with a trio of guys who were taking it easy inside before heading towards Nallo.
Then it was time for me to start bringing Anna up to speed, and she started moving in for real. The rain had moved on, leaving sunny but windy weather in its wake, and I did some last things before taking Anna for a tour of the place; she had been a warden there before, but things have a tendency to change over time. Then I officially relinquished the wardenship of Vistas to her, and retreated to close the books on my own period.
There were a few guests (whom I no longer needed to worry about), but all in all it was a calm first day on the job for Anna, and we could continue our talks for long periods. I packed up as much as I could, with the intent on leaving on the morrow if the weather was up for it, and then sat down with Anna for an evening snack. Suddenly an elk emerged from the trees – we had spotted another one up on the hill earlier – and we followed it as it slowly made its way past the house without caring about our presence. I listened in on the evening forecast, which was a bit worse than before, and then turned in for my last night in Vistas this summer.
