Saturday 17/4 – Sunday 25/4

Saturday 17/4

Finally I arose to a clear morning, with only a few light clouds among the higher peaks, and the wind had also decreased considerably. After my breakfast what clouds there were slowly dissolved, and I started giving some serious thought to where I could go today. I walked down to the bridge to have a look around in my binoculars – the snow was rock hard, and looking at the Njunni route that too looked icy as well as lacking in snow, so in the end I decided upon something different and left before 09:15.

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There was no one waiting, and neither could I find any trace of visits in my absence. I had a fruit snack out on the bench and then washed myself, after which two guys with sleds and one dog each came down from Nallo. I went out to meet them, and found out that they had come from Singi; they also said that there were quite a few people out on Kungsleden, but obviously not many of them found their way here. I talked for a while with them and then started dinner.

I was feeling drowsy so I had a long lie-down before the other two came up to pay, and we talked some more in the western guest room, which had grown pretty cold during the last few days what with the lack of overnight guests. As the evening grew late there was a pretty light on Reaiddáčohkka West and Nállu, and it was both fair and cold outside. Just after I had had my evening snack I chanced upon seeing a hare hop by my window; it is not too unlikely that this was the same one that I had caught a glimpse of earlier in the day. It was really beautiful outside with the new moon in the sky, and it was perfectly calm, but I was still thankful to slip into bed after 22, tired as I was.

Sunday 18/4

I spent the morning – which was cloudy again – in bed, and then went down to check on the dog people. As they left it started snowing, and it had also grown windy, but a bit later things improved again. The wind was chilly, though, so I mostly stayed indoors, or at least remained on the lee side of the cottage where the sun's warmth was unmitigated. As I was reading in the book I had brought I heard a sound, and found that a swift skier had arrived from Nikkaluokta. I went out to talk with him, and before long we both relocated to the porch of the main cottage, where we could find shelter from the wind. There we continued our conversation while he started preparing lunch on his camping stove, and I found out that he was the one who had flown the airplane I had observed a week earlier. Since it was indeed lunchtime I prepared my own meal, and then sat down outside too.

We ate and talked about this and that, and towards the end of it the sun took to hiding itself behind clouds, and a bit of snow appeared in the air again. Then a number of Sámi on snowmobiles came from Alisjávri – not an unusual sight, that, but this time they stopped, and I took the opportunity to get some fresh news on the condition of the northward route. I spoke some more with the skier before he headed back to Nikkaluokta, and then lay down to read, but I soon had to put the book away lest I drop it from fatigue, and I dozed for several bits.

I had just arisen again when two Finns with sleds whom the other man had told me about arrived, and after they had installed themselves in the lower cottage I settled down for afternoon tea. Outside conditions were getting better, but the wind remained appreciable as well as cold, and around Nállu a mist was hanging. After dinner the Finns came up for payment; they were to make an early start, and we talked for a bit – they with the common faltering Finland-Swedish. The rest of the evening I spent in quiet, and then called it a night at 22.

Motorized

Breakthrough

Evening light

Monday 19/4

Nice to see that again

It had snowed some during the night, and there was a wee bit of powder on the ground. Some flakes were still falling from thick clouds, but there was almost no wind. On the local news I heard that Kebnekaise would be closing on Wednesday, one and a half weeks ahead of schedule, because they never managed to track down the source of the persistent stomach flu that had been raging since February – a huge setback not only for the station itself, but for the entire area. When I went down to the Finns to relate this and the latest weather forecast I found them packing their sleds, and they left soon thereafter. The forenoon held quite a bit of snow, mist and clouds, so I compensated with the radio. Then two people and a dog came from Alesjaure, and I talked some with them outside before going in to have lunch.

In the early afternoon the weather got better, and there was a bit of sun to be enjoyed. One of the dog pair then came up with quite a large letter for me, which contained the latest issue of Turist, the latest revision of the BD6 map, and some new instructions. He and his companion were going to go up towards Vássaloamijávri, and I gave them a few tips about the way there. Myself, I started investigating the new map, finding that there had been a number of changes – and I do believe that I can take credit for some of the name amendments, as I have been in contact with the responsible parties in such matters – not the least of which was a much improved fidelity in the contour lines. I then tried to read some in Turist out on the bench, but the wind was too cold so I returned inside. There I waited for a couple of people to come down out of Stuor Reaiddávággi, and when they – two young Swedish women – arrived I learnt that they had come from Tjäktja; apparently it was overfull in Nallo. Before dinner I had some glögg and lots of talk with them, and outside it had started snowing again.

Another shot of scale

Cloud dividing Siehtagas

When I had just finished eating a single man with a sled came from Nikkaluokta, and he opted for the unoccupied half of the cottage. Soon I heard barking from the shelf above, and rather quickly my first guests came down, having been up on the 1032 rise overlooking a large part of Visttasvággi. I took it easy for a while and then went over to the girls, and we spent the rest of the evening with talk and a bit of picture viewing. When I was finally ready to go to bed the sky was semi-clear, but wide clouds were hovering around the northwestern peaks, and there was also some wind.

Tuesday 20/4

I had to go out after 5, at which time the single man was already up, and he left about an hour or so later. The weather, which had been good even at my first exit, was improving further, and I prepared to go on a day tour. I went down to the lower cottage with a letter detailing the snow conditions in and around Visttasvággi, since I had heard that there were rumors out on Kungsleden that this valley was more or less impassable; they would be going to Nallo, and I had asked Sigrid to forward the letter to Sälka after reading it. When I was just about ready to depart the girls were arising, and I talked some more with them; they had been debating whether to go north or south, but had now decided upon Nikkaluokta. I finished up, said good-bye, and left shortly after 09:30.

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I greeted my way around the assembled people, which consisted of three separate groups. Most of the ten I had seen in Stuor Reaiddávággi were present, having been on an afternoon tour up to a nearby ice fall, and one of them was still there. In the lower cottage I found Anders and Jesper, the STF caretakers, which explained the snowmobiles. I discussed some essential topics with them, learning among other things that the Abisko route still held nicely despite the recent warmth, and then returned up to the "actual" guests for more talk and shopping. Meanwhile Anders and Jesper attempted to acquire a GSM signal with a large antenna they had brought for testing purposes, but to no avail, so Vistas will remain isolated for the time being (apart from the assistance phone of the police, that is, which is part of a special relay system). I took the opportunity to rid myself of some things, and also to make plans for my eventual departure, and soon they left for Kaitumjaure.

While I was preparing dinner three older men with sleds came from Alesjaure, and they were planning on tenting for two nights before (probably) going back in the same direction. I was not feeling too tired despite the arduous excursion, but I did register some mild protests from my legs. When the tenters came up to pay I noticed that another group of dog people had arrived, and I soon went down to check – finding no less than five dogs inside, which had helped their two masters cover the distance from Nikkaluokta. I relaxed with my book, listening to some rather pleasant piano-heavy jazz on the radio, and now I was getting drowsier by the minute. It was incredibly beautiful outside, with the moon in a clear sky, and a complete lack of wind. What there was no lack of, however, was ptarmigan calls all around, but those certainly could not keep me from falling asleep.

Anders and Jesper departing

Calm evening

Lower light

Higher light

Wednesday 21/4

Another beautiful morning

Off they went

I slept heavily until the morning forecast, and as I was feeling tired I remained in bed for some time. It was still clear and calm outside, and the temperature was –9°C. The two smaller non-dog groups were departing soon after my breakfast, and I stood outside talking to them in my shirtsleeves; the brilliant sun kept me warm enough despite the coldness. After looking in on the dog pair the larger group left for Alesjaure, and after some deliberation I decided to go for a tour myself. At 10:00 I was ready to do so, but before executing I checked on the remaining guests, advising the trio against the Unna Reaiddávággi route with sleds, because of both the cliff face at Unna Räita and the lack of snow in the eastern parts.

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I had a fruit-snack out on the bench while the washing water heated (as usual, kind of), and as I did so the clouds lessened again. When I was done I spotted the tenters coming down the western slope, and when they arrived I got a written response from Sigrid. As for themselves, they had been up into Šielmmávággi a bit to check out that route, but were now determined to stick with the original plan of returning to Alesjaure through Visttasvággi. It was very nice outside, and the crust of the snow remained hard. The rest of the day progressed calmly, and I grew more and more tired. Later in the evening all wind had died down and we had another moonlit night; it was still comfortable outside, but it was quickly getting colder.

Not a bad spot

Not much snow remaining

Another moonlit night

Thursday 22/4

The next day held more of the same, and I drew up plans for yet another day tour. While conveying the latest forecasts to the tenters, who were having breakfast in the lower cottage, I was given a package of fresh pasta; originally they were supposed to be four, and now had too much food with them. Once that was over and done with, I changed into the telemark gear and started up the slope after 09:15.

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There was no one about when I got back, and I had another one of those solitary fruit snacks on the bench – but this was the last of the oranges. The warmth of the day had had quite an effect on the snow around the cottage, and it was only the cold nights that saved things. When the wind increased I went indoors and lay down to rest, as I was starting to feel drained in my legs and knees. After dinner the wind had died down again, and there were mostly just thin, high strips left in the sky. It was rather comfortable outside, and even though I had no guests the ptarmigans kept me company. I went through the cache of old guestbooks, sorting them by year, and managed to find three of my previous visits. I was feeling pretty tired, so I hit the sack immediately after the evening weather report.

Friday 23/4

I slept well, and went back to bed for a bit longer after taking care of the obligatory outdoor visit; there were some clouds around the peaks, but no wind. When I got up next said clouds were lifting, but the sun was instead passing into a larger one above Vássanjunnji. Later in the forenoon it grew cloudier, but the sky stayed clear to the north. I did some major work in the shop and listened to the radio, and then I heard the sound of snowmobiles. It was a whole group of them coming from Nikkaluokta – evidently the lower valley was still passable after all – and there were also two dogs included. I was recognized at once by one of the leaders, as this was the same school that had come to Nallo two years before; this time they were fifteen pupils and three leaders, and would be pausing at Vistas before skiing up to Nallo. Originally they were supposed to have done this tour in the end of March, but the rampant Kebnekaisian stomach flu had put a stop to that.

It was now rather fair outside and I talked some with the elders (har, har) before sitting down on the bench for lunch. The group was preparing for their departure, but when I did a head count I found two extra individuals; these were skiers who had come up from Nikkaluokta without my noticing, and would be returning there shortly. I talked some with two of the leaders while all the others left; these two would be pulling sleds and had some packing to do first.

Light clouds in the morning

Docile canine

Kids

Off they went, too

After they had all left it grew more clear, and the sun warmed nicely. I took it easy, both inside and outside, and also managed to repair a minor detail in one of the telemark bindings that had broken during that windy session a week earlier. I had afternoon tea out on the bench and remained there for a good while, feeling rather good. A wind was picking up, however, and when it turned more constant I went inside.

In the early evening a couple of snowmobiles passed by, and one of them chose to go out on the ice rather than utilizing the track passing the cottages – and nearly broke through at a weak spot. The full gas canisters which had been frozen to the ground had now come loose, and I moved them to a better location; those things are heavy indeed, but I managed alright. It was still fair, but the wind was cold, and it got even chillier once the sun had passed behind Kugghjulskammen. I spent the rest of the evening reading, and when it was time for bed I noted that it was pretty light still.

Nice afternoon

Wind crests on Siehtagasglaciären

Impassable – now

Sunset behind a cog

Pretty light on Nállu...

...and Reaiddáčohkka West

Moon through branches

Moon by itself

Saturday 24/4

I had trouble falling asleep, and when I went out to take a leak in the middle of the night I was stunned by a low moon directly above Nállu, so naturally I had to attempt some photography. I managed to go back to sleep, and remained in bed listening to the weekend nature program. By then it had grown somewhat cloudy, but visibility was mostly good still.

After breakfast I went out to carry/drag/wiggle the empty gas canisters down to the storage area I had designated, feeling a cold northerly wind as I did so. When I checked the status of the canisters connected to the upper cottage I discovered that one of them had been depleted, so the carrying/dragging/wiggling was not over. There was a small handcart intended to transport the canisters (which weigh about 90kg when full), but due to the scant and not too hard snow I could only get the replacement so far with that, and the rest of the way I had to push it in a horizontal position; it was heavy work, but I succeeded. After finishing I stood outside for a while, enjoying what bits of sun there were, , but it was growing cloudier over the eastern parts of Reaiddáčohkka. Still, I went out on a short lunch tour after 11:30, aiming for the nearby ice fall.

Finished

I followed the smaller course of Visttasjohka which branches off just below the cottage site, keeping to the edge to avoid the naked ice. Soon I saw the tracks made by the recent group, and at the outflow of a frozen brook I left my skis; there were footprints going up through the forest, mostly upon said brook. I brought the poles, which was a good idea since some portions were really slippery, and at one point I had to backtrack a bit and choose a different route. This involved jostling my way through some thickets in increasing inclination, and after returning to the main ice course for a short bit I made my way up a steep section of grass, eventually finding a miniature ledge on which to sit at 12:15.

Icy stream

Icy fall

Another icy stream

Closing in

Here I was sheltered from the wind, which I could hear in the trees below and around. As I had my lunch there were brief glimpses of sun, bringing the impressive curtain of ice out in some of its full splendor. In Stuor Reaiddávággi, however, it was growing hazy. I sat still for some time, surveying the valley with my binoculars; there was a flock of reindeer at the delta of the stream from Unna Reaiddávággi, but other than that I appeared to be alone – still.

When I started to descend I kept a bit further to my right, finding less snow and ice, but instead some tricky stones – and of course a thicket or two. When the slope levelled out I found myself on a rock field, and after navigating through that I could follow the brook back to my skis. With those back on I climbed up a bit to the summer trail, which was marked on the trees here, and followed this through the forest back towards the cottages. There was a ski track most of the way, but towards the end it had been trampled by a good number of reindeer, so I skied on the side. I emerged on the level of the privy, and when I reached the path going up to that building I took off the skis and walked the last few meters at 13:15.

Curtain

Visttasvággi below

Smaller drapes above

Returning from the forest

I lay down to rest listening to the howl of the increasing wind. Later in the afternoon said wind lessened, as did the clouds, and the sun broke through on and off. When it was drawing close to dinnertime the clouds broke apart for real, and it got sunnier all the while, but the wind was back in earnest. When I looked westwards I saw a figure walking down the steeper slope, and soon enough two older ladies arrived; they had gone from Nallo, but made a day tour to Unna Räita first. I talked for a good while with them as they ate, and even had to finish the last of their tortellini. The wind was gusty and quite a few clouds remained, even though the latter still seemed to be in the process of lifting.

Suddenly I caught sight of an elk on the other side of Visttasjohka, but it was not entirely easy to spot at first because it stood absolutely still for a long time. Finally it started moving again, continuing upstream, and soon it disappeared from sight. The clouds were now sparse enough to reveal an almost full moon over Reaiddáčohkka, and the wind was weaker again. I went to bed after the late evening news, but I could hear the ladies staying up for a bit longer.

Fair again

The wandering elk

Sunday 25/4

The morning sky was mostly clear with high veils, and everything was still save for the ptarmigan calls. Towards breakfast more high clouds were rolling in, and a light mist was forming inside Stuor Reaiddávággi, but visibility was still unaffected. I talked some with the ladies, who were soon ready to leave, and readied myself similarly. I held out for a while longer, though, observing the shifting mists'n'veils, but in the end set out for Nallo around 09:30.

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The cottages were empty and neither were there any traces of people – not out in the snow either. More snow was coming from the west, but after dinner things were lighter again, with Nállu showing through the mists. I rested for a couple of hours, listening to an interesting radio documentary, during which it started snowing once more, coupled with some gusts of wind. It was still snowing when I turned in at 22:00, and thankfully it was well below 0°C.