Saturday 30/3

I slept well through the night, and when I got up at 7 it was clear and still as forecast. Breakfast wasn't as crowded as it might have been; quite a few people were already in the process of departing, and so had finished their tasks earlier. I was in no particular hurry myself, but was ready to leave around 9 anyway, and did so in a light wind.

Newer cottage in the morning

Once below the first slope down I broke off the trail, following some older tracks along a more direct route into Härjångsdalen, close to the path of the summer trail. It was very warm, so I opened up as much as I could, and adjusted my ski boot to accomodate the painful ankle. The wind returned when I approached the valley mouth, and it was rather chilling. Having rounded Gruvsmällen I crossed to the other side, going across a patch where the wind had removed almost all snow, and then started ascending parallel to Tvärhammaren. This slope was longer than it looked, and when I neared the saddle the wind strengthened.

Tracks

Härjångsfjällen in view

Warm day

Other tracks

Härjångsdalen with Gåsen at the other end

Crossing the trail again

A look back

East

Panorama back the way I came

I rounded peak 1442, maintaining my altitude, and then went up the side of the next rise, aiming for the saddle before 1529. Looking down to my right I saw what would have been a terrific run had there been just a little bit more snow, but as I was of a mind to go higher I went on, awed by the sudden majestic appearance of Helags. Peak 1529 showed a fairly steep slope, so I proceeded up around its southern side on deliciously mushy spring snow, and stopped at a rock once Sylarna had come into view as well around noon. I ate there looking over the grand vista in the full power of the sun, and just enjoyed myself. Far away I could just make out tracks going up to the summit of Helags, as well as some people upon them.

In the saddle

North

Northeast

Next saddle

Panorama over the Helags massif

Sylarna appearing

Towards Ljungdalen

South

I went on by going up to the next saddle in sequence, above rather an impressive crevice, and then started the final ascent of Stora Härjångsstöten. Since there was an overhang on the eastern side I kept a safe distance to the edge, and also noted that the fox tracks I had been in contact with ever since the valley floor were still with me, all the way to the top. Up there were many more tracks, but of human origin, and the reason was clear: at 1626 m, this is an excellent vantage point. I remained there for a while, absorbing it all, and then started thinking about which way to go down.

Target

Last bit up

Västra Bunnerstöten

Östra Bunnerstöten

Åreskutan

Over Härjångsdalen

Gåsen cottages, Gåsen and Snasahögarna

Summited

Panorama from Helags to Sylarna

180-degree panorama from northwest to southeast

The direct route towards Gåsen consisted of bumpy snow broken into ledges, so I followed the ski tracks along the continuation of the eastern edge instead, finding some very good snow for tour-telemark. I then turned west, crisscrossing my way down between the patches of tougher snow, and then followed the higher of what appeared to be two main tracks. This allowed me to keep gliding for quite some time, which was good since my ankle was not pleasant at all. A single skier was approaching the cottages along the trail, and I "competed" with him during the last bit, but had to concede defeat by a minute or so around 14:15.

To go down

Having gone down

Cottages ahead

Stora Härjångsstöten behind

Helags further off

This skier turned out to be one of my roommates from Vålåvalen, as I had guessed, and we were once again placed in the same room after I had chatted some with my warden colleague Mats. I was very surprised to see how little snow there was around the cottages – there are usually deep stairs, holes, tunnels etc. but the depth seemed to be at least a meter less than usual now. Curious.

After installing myself in the larger cottage, which had seen some partial refurbishment since last year, I returned to Mats and spent some time outside with him before visiting the shop. Then I felt it was time for an afternoon snack, which I had out in the strong sun just outside the cottage. I walked around a bit and then prepared my dessert for later, placing it to cool, and then returned outside, which I was far from alone in doing. Things were starting to get crowded in the kitchen, so I snuck into the rolling queue when I could, and then had my Easter dinner in what was now a very warm room.

Vålåvalen trail

Newer cottage

Older cottage

Privy

Sylarna...

...with skiers

Late afternoon

Who wants to stay inside?

As the sun was setting I went for another photo round, and the outside was much more pleasant temperature wise. The deepening redness upon the peaks was mesmerizing, followed by the cold and serene blue of dusk. I spent some quiet time in my room, which was also rather warm, and then had an evening snack in an even warmer kitchen. Outside the sky displayed a full host of stars, and I looked upon them for a long while before entering bed around 21:30 (which was nominally 22:30, since I had already adjusted my watch for DST – which felt keenly silly under present circumstances).