Friday 29/3
My train was on time, but the one supposed to arrive well before it wasn't, so the taxi-bus still had to wait in Undersåker. The weather was entirely clear and there appeared to be quite a bit of snow in the terrain, both of which boded well. After finalizing the (small) pack at the Vålådalen fjeld station I carried my skis down to the "trail field", since there was no snow on the road that needed to be crossed, and then started the tour before 10.
In Vålådalen
I passed one person immediately after entering the forest, where the track was so polished by frequent use that I found better grip on the side. At a short but steep slope a few kilometers later I caught up with four other skiers, whom I passed and then outran. The majority of the "polishers" seemed to have followed the branch to Kyrkstenen (Church Rock), so after that the track was better skiing-wise. Just after passing a mere I was overtaken without warning by a man and a dog travelling at high speed, but just ahead a pair with another dog going the opposite way caused some commotion before they could convince the canines to keep moving. There was some wind out on the large open mires before the trail split to Stensdalen, after which the track shrank noticeably.
Choice
Skirting...
...the mires
Uvberget (Owl Mountain)
I passed Stensån beside the bridge, as the ice was well suited for this, and started the long, slow ascent up through the forest. The distance up to the point where the snowmobile trail makes contact again felt somewhat long, and I skied on at a good tempo. As I neared the tree line I skied beside the trail, where the snow was of the nice soft-upon-hard variety, and finally attained the wide view over the Vålådalen basin. I crossed the trail from the east a bit further ahead, skiing over to a large rock which I climbed around 12:30.
Crossing Stensån
Lill-Stensdalsfjället
Ottfjället
Glittering
Higher view of Ottfjället
North
Southwest
Line
Crossed here
Closeup of Gråsjödörren
Vålådalen basin
Panorama from the lunch rock
While I sat on my rock a total of five people and a dog passed by from the north, but that was the only bout of activity. After lunch I skied on the trail for a bit, meeting two snowmobiles, but then left it again as it turned just before Kroktjärnarna. These I crossed lengthwise and then proceeded straight up through the sparse forest, where the snow was completely untouched. However, I had begun feeling a sore around one of my malleoli, and it appeared to be getting worse rather than better. I continued up among the hills at the base of which the Vålå cottages are situated, proceeding east of the highest rise, before hitting other ski tracks. Some winding later saw me arriving at the cottages from the east after 14:45.
In motion again...
....following the trail
Left it here
Smällhögarna
Wildlife
Untouched
More of Smällhögarna behind
Ottfjället too
Gruvsmällen and a cairn
Southeast over the hills
Gråsjödörren
The trail to Helags
Gråsjödörren once more
Arrival
Katarina the warden and another person were standing outside, and I talked a bit with the former before going inside to a room I was to share with (at the moment) two other men – who were just on their way out in the sun. I went for a photo round and then walked over to Katarina, who was staying in the old cottage with her dog, and shared some tea and rusks outside.
When more people started rolling in I returned inside, where I found that both the heaters in the rooms and the large oven in the kitchen were new – at least compared to my last visit. The cottages are shadowed by Vålåvalen proper with regard to the mobile network, but strangely enough there was an active wi-fi net, and it felt kind of strange to surf the cyber-web at high speed on my phone in such a place, when no calls could be placed. More and more people were coming, and the place started to fill up; my room now had occupants in all beds. This also made waiting one's turn in the kitchen necessary, but I managed alright and had dinner together with two of my roommates.
Enjoyment
Lunndörren trail
Stayed in there
Sunny
Härjångsfjällen
Still sunny
The evening light was pretty, but feeling tired I rested until dark in my room, and then read for a while. Outside it was chilly and still, and all the stars were out. I had my evening snack in the nicely warm kitchen, followed by some stargazing, and there was also a wee bit of aurora. The total tally for the night was 48 people indoors plus four in a tent, which was just above capacity, and I was happy to join most of the others in slipping off to bed around 21:30.
