Sunday 18/8

When I went out in the early morning the clouds were still present, but when I got up after 07:30 the sky was clear, so I just had to remain outside for some time both before and after breakfast. The other Swede had left earlier, and after the Germans had also departed I packed and cleaned in peace, being the last guest left. Save for Björn, that is, who was finally ready to strike his tent and be on his way, having spent no less than five nights in total at Unna Allakas. He was still present, however, and I found myself in another long conversation with him and Emma before finally starting the day's hike at 10.

Glaciers in full view

The group leaving for Alesjaure

Inviting shower vista

Having eaten most of my food I noted that the rucksack felt fairly light, and although my knee gave some trouble at first it got much better once I was properly warm. This was not a problem, what with the sun and all, and I had no jacket on this time. Getting across the courses of Ruovssokjohka was no problem either, after which the sun was clouded by strips of high veils from time to time. The trail was in good condition and having had a day of rest I maintained a good tempo. Before too long I overtook the two campers who had left earlier that morning, and after easily passing the still bridge-less stream from Skáŋgalanjávri I entered a region of trees well-nigh stripped of leaves by insect larvae – a widespread condition this year also present close to Abisko. The visual effect was similar to that from my midsummer trek out to Unna Allakas three years prior.

On the move...

...on the trail

Unna Allagas

The rise of Ruovssuk

Katterjåkk trail

Ruovssokjohka ford

Truly yours

That ruin

Abiskoalperna on the horizon

Norwegian fjelds on the other one

Trees with leaves

Trees without leaves

Naked

At the Válffojohka bridge

After the sturdy bridge over Válffojohka I stayed on the trail just long enough to get around most of the ridge that lay immediately on the other side, and then aimed upwards, in the direction of the reindeer fences by Vuolip Čorvvošjávri. I passed a mire, some heathland, another mire, and then ascended through sparse forest to an open plateau where I rested a bit. It was quite warm, and not much wind to alleviate matters – although it was welcome when it did come. Another stretch of sparse forest followed, the undergrowth of which mostly consisted of high grass displaying signs of passing wildlife. I continued up to a prominent rock formation I had had my eyes on even from the bottom of the slope, where I sat down for lunch before 12:30.

Southeast

Top of the slope

Godučohkka etc.

Panorama westwards from the lunch site

It was warm enough that I felt no need for a jacket, although I did spot the first mosquito of the tour. Taken a nosedive, those already had. After resting for a while I started making my way between the hills, which made navigation a less than clear-cut business. I passed east of (most of) the reindeer fences, but since the bridge over the stream ahead was still a good distance further down I tried the passage on my own, which turned out to be really simple. I then came up to Čoahijávri fairly close to its western end, so I rounded it on that side, and in an increasing wind I passed west of Čamojávri as well.

Going around...

...a tarn

Back along the valley

More of Godučohkka

Fence passage

Abiskoalperna closer by

Closing in on...

...the stream

Up among the lakes

A rather wet mire later I stood on the crest overlooking the southeastern end of Hoiganvággi, from which I gently made my way down through pleasant terrain. There appeared to be another bridge beside the reindeer-watching hut at Eahpárusluoppal, but for the same reason as in the previous valley I decided to attempt the crossing of Hoiganjohka where it split into several courses at the confluence with the stream from Čamojávri. The water was much swifter here, though, and the last of the three courses presented some problems. Well, not problems per se, since it would have been easy enough to cross if I removed my boots, but after scouting a bit and throwing in some more rocks at select places I could get across without doing so.

Eahpárusluoppal

More of Abiskoalperna

Descending into Hoiganvággi

Crossed Hoiganjohka here

I followed an ATV track up the next slope, on it and off it, while the clouds grew darker and more numerous to the south. Around the small tarns higher up the ground was broken into ledges, and I had to take some detours to get around some of them. I then passed a conglomeration of small reindeer-watching huts that mostly looked like boxes strewn about, coming down to Boazojávri at the headland that separates the lake into two parts. From there I followed close to the shore until I reached Boazojohka, which I crossed by way of stones. There was an acceptable spot right there, but I decided to go just a little bit further. The terrain was bumpy, shrubby and stony, however, and I only found a patch which was so-so, but since I was tired I didn't fancy looking for much longer. As it was I left the pack there and checked out the immediate surroundings, and after finding a small brook I came upon a stretch of heath that would simply have to do, so I went back and brought my stuff over.

Look, a bridge

Hoiganvággi stretching away

Yet another tarn

Approaching...

...Boazojávri

Little huts

Enclosure

Clouds over Godučohkka

Glittering Boazojávri

It was now almost 16:30, and I pitched the tent at once, having some trouble with the shifting wind. The spot was slanting somewhat, but it turned out alright – and the view was very good. As I prepared dinner the clouds were sinking over the peaks, and started to drift by overhead. After having a change of clothes I sat down to eat in what was left of the sun, and then stayed outside for a while. The sky remained half clear above, and completely so both over Torneträsk and around the Norwegian peaks I could see far off in the distance. After reading a bit I went out in a sudden strong reappearance of the sun, climbing the nearest slope a little ways. Going down I came upon a good deal of very fine blueberries, and ate my way back. Since it was still sunny I sat outside until it disappeared again, and then went back to reading.

Sun upon the tent

View of peaks

More clouds

Higher up

Spot the tent

Godučohkka 1991

I had my evening snack under a pretty evening light, and as I studied the map for the next stage I suddenly realized that I was in violation of the rules of Abisko National Park, where tenting is prohibited – without realizing it I had gone a few hundred meters inside the border, which is consituted by Boazojohka here. Oh well, not much to do about it then, but since the objective of that rule clearly is to protect the vegetation I don't think I transgressed against the spirit of it, since when I later left the site there was no trace of my presence. Having said goodnight to the cloud-capped peaks I turned in at 22, struggling a bit to find a good sleeping position on the slanting floor.