Thursday 30/8

I took the "lower way" to the Vuoksák rapids, walking in fairly warm and very fair weather. The crossing of Vuoksákjåhkå was even easier than last time around due to the low water levels this late in the season, and then I stuck to the path which went on beyond the hill I had stood fishing on then. It was very clear at first, but as it came out onto the large mires beneath Vuoksák it grew fainter, and soon I did not bother trying to distinguish it. I walked in the center of the first mires and then turned upwards a bit, before going back down when I was closing in on Gárddevárjåhkå. High in the sky more clouds were drifting in from the southwest, and down on the ground there was a large reindeer with impressive antlers that scampered on ahead of me as I approached the stream.

I had brought the extra sandals from the cottage, since even with water levels as low as they were I suspected that Gárddevárjåhkå would be major enough to require actual fording. Just where I was it flows in many parallel courses, and I got across the first one easily in my boots, but then my assumption was proven right. Thus I put on the sandals and went in, crossing the next course just at one of the splits, which landed me on an islet in the middle of the stream; the water was cold but not freezing and almost reached to my knees at the deepest place, but the current was nothing to worry about. I splashed across a shallow "connection flow" and then the last major course, which posed no problem even though here the current was noticeably swifter.

I walked over to the start of the forest where I took off the sandals, using the dry grass to dry my feet somewhat, and then I hung the wet footwear in a tree – thinking that it was no use bringing them further with me, since I would be passing this way going back, and I felt confident that I would recognize the location. I then noticed that I was standing on the beginnings of a path, so I followed that upwards, and when the trees grew sparser and the ground drier it became clearer, bringing me out into a large open space at the edge of which there is an old hut at 11:15.

Setting out

Mini-panorama of Tarradalen

Drawing close to Vuoksák

Powdered Låptåtjåhkkå

Beautiful day

The Vuoksák rapids

Passing Vuoksák by

Another Tarradalen panorama

Another Låptåtjåhkkå shot

Tarradalen again

Whitened Stájggá

Going up a slope

Yet another panorama over Tarradalen

This hut is the only surviving structure of a Sámi encampment that was abandoned many decades ago; on old maps – such as the one which hangs on the wall in the Såmmarlappa cottage – it is included under the name Kartevarekåtorna. The hut itself was in "ok" condition – it would do for food break shelter in bad weather, but it is hardly a place to count on for actual residence. I left my pack outside and then walked around the premises, seeing if I could locate any traces of the old settlement – which was kind of why I had come here in the first place. Despite covering quite a lot of ground during the follow half-hour I did not, however, find anything save for a round indentation in said ground which may or may not have been an árran at some time, so finally I gave up and sat down on a dry patch of small shrubs to eat. It was warm at first but then the sun was veiled by some denser clouds that were coming in from the southwest, and a haze was dimming Stájggá.

After lunch I took off in the direction of the peak of Gárddevárre, climbing the fairly steep slope out of the forest, scaring some ptarmigans who were camouflaged well, and when I had reached an intermediate crest I walked around towards the north until I saw what lay ahead. The sky held less cloud in that direction, as well as above to the northwest, but otherwise it was growing overcast, and there was a bit of wind. I descended further to the west, and once into the forest I came across a large patch of flattened grass, indicative of a resting place of a similarly large animal. Sure enough, after some southeastward traversing of the forest a large elk suddenly bustled through the trees some distance ahead of me, and I altered my trajectory to intercept it further down, camera in hand – and fortunately I managed to get a good shot of it before it fled again.

I then emerged on the meadow-like land close to Gárddevárjåhkå, coming out right at the sandal tree. From there I followed the same way back over the stream, now feeling the effects of the cold water more than before. There was a high mist off to the southwest which was steadily approaching, and also Fierrovágge and Låptåtjåhkkå were obscured. I chose a somewhat lower course going back across the mires, cutting across an island of dwarf birch shrubs, with a chilling wind in my face. Just before I found the path again I felt a few drops coming from above, and out on the grassland/heathland after Vuoksákjåhkå they grew more numerous; the mist was now reaching Måskásjgájsse, but apart from that the clouds actually seemed to be lifting somewhat. The drops had ceased falling but the threat of rain hung heavy in the air as I took the ferry over Darrhaädno before 14.

Tarradalen north

Álátjåhkkå

Tarradalen south

Elk!

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