Monday 4/9 – Sunday 10/9

Monday 4/9

It was a windy night, and the morning was only somewhat calmer. There were showers in the massif most of the time, some of which spread out from there, but there were also glimpses of the sun. The wind was gusty, with quite some power in the gales. After everyone had left I did some follow-up work in the storage shed, finding even more items I didn't know were there, while a rainbow appeared in front of the massif – the first of many, as it would turn out.

More colors downwards...

...and upwards

Amphibian on the path

Shifting trees

Four Finns then walked up the ATV track, having spent the night at the Ruovddášjohka bridge, and stopped for a break. Another two Finns soon came from the west with the same intention, and everyone gathered up at the main cottage. I took the opportunity to have a wash in the sauna utilizing the leftover tepid water before cleaning out the place, and meanwhile a powerful shower hit resulting in an equally powerful rainbow outside the window. After that the weather was mostly fair, but still windy, and I managed to have an outside lunch in the semi-shelter of the warden's cottage.

While I was working up at the guest cottage two people came from the north, but they just passed by and took the water path. Another two northerly Finns followed, and I talked for a good while with them before they headed off towards the fall. I finished up my tasks and then sat down for afternoon tea, followed by more rain and wind, especially the latter. More people passed by, but as of yet no one had chosen to stay. Outside the dried-out fireweed was flying about in the wind, making a fluffy mess everywhere it landed.

Flying fluff...

...everywhere

Towards Bávššatvárri

Yet another massif shot

I did some indoor things while the weather kept shifting outside, with the wind howling more and more. The evening saw more of the same, and apart from some more passers-by I saw only reindeer. In the end two of the people who had stopped by earlier did put up their tent down on the sheltered patch, judging that this location would be preferable to their second alternative up at Ruovddášvággejávrrit. I had no one inside, however, so this was the second empty night – and it was also the very first time that I didn't light the sauna.

Tuesday 5/9

This night was even windier, but the clouds had mostly gone. My room had grown rather chilly, so I started the day by lighting the heater. When I got up at 07:30 the sky was half clear and the sun was shining, but thick clouds had taken up positions above the massif, which had some fresh powder on its peaks. The tenters left fairly early on, leaving me with only the rainbows as company. It was rather cold in the wind, and being outside when the sun was clouded wasn't very comfortable, especially when the incessant massif showers spread in the wind, so I spent most of the forenoon inside.

A single Finn passed by from the west, alerting me to another three people approaching from the same direction; they had spent the night in tents some 2 km away, and had had quite a harrowing experience with the gales. The rainbows kept coming, and soon so did the trio, followed by a pair who had passed by the day before, and now came walking back up the ATV track. The latter two elected to stay, while the other four appeared to be making reservations for Gappohytta and thereby would be moving on before long. A total of four more Finns also arrived, and then I could finally sit down for lunch – accompanied by another rainbow.

Another nine people in total then came, only one of whom was to stay. While several of the others paused on the porch, sheltered from the rain and wind that still hit every now and then, two booked Norwegians came from the west, followed by three booked Swedes from the north. One of the latter was Lo, the manager of the visitor center in Abisko National Park, and her group was to stay two nights. A bit later another Finn also arrived from Måskohytta, and eventually decided to stay inside.

More people showed up later in the afternoon, six of whom ended up staying. A plan for the sauna was readied, in which the women outnumbered the men 17 to 3, and after lighting I fed the fire well since the chamber had grown quite cold what with the off-day. While I was doing so two more Finnish women arrived, presenting themselves as Soili's sisters, and with this the cottages were nearly filled to capacity.

The gales kept at it after dinner, and more powder was visible on the peaks. I talked some with various guests and then read for a long while as the rain went back and forth outside, the powder line descending with each shower. It was now rather cold outside, even without the wind, and no one felt like staying up too late.

Wednesday 6/9

It was actually a rather calm night, complete with a half moon and two planets, but it was also just a couple of degrees above freezing. As morning approached, however, the wind suddenly returned in force, with long, powerful gales. When I got up the massif was much whiter, and as usual played host to thick clouds, but in other places there was a bit of sun. Most people were leaving in various directions, and I busied myself with the usual tasks while the wind kept on howling gustily.

Later in the forenoon a couple of Finns came from the west, having camped about 4 km away, and to no one's surprise they paid a visit to the fall. After lunch I spotted movement on the northern trail, and in the end counted eleven people on the way, which fitted nicely with a reservation for a Polish group of that size. I finished up some paperwork and then went up to meet the newcomers, who filed in one after the other, and they were indeed who I thought they were. I went through some things with their leader, and as hoped they were fine with occupying the ten-bed room with the aid of a spare mattress. During this a group of four booked Finns also arrived, after which I turned back to various closing-related tasks.

Four more Finns then came from the north, and while they contemplated whether to stay indoors or not another two Finns came from the west. The latter were the vanguard of a group of 14 I had heard about, in the form of Swedish-speaking students with tents. The rest of the group gradually trickled in, and they started pitching their tents in the immediate vicinity; luckily only some of them were interested in the sauna, easing the pressure on what was already a very busy schedule. By then the quartet had decided to camp out as well, and they had also informed me that another two of their number would be arriving later and do the same; at the moment they were making an attempt to summit Bealčán, which was either impressive or foolhardy given the strong winds.

Another two Finns also arrived from the north, taking the dog room, and then it was time to light the sauna much earlier than usual due to the high number of visitors pining for it. The weather was shifting back and forth, with the massif clouds never budging, and from time to time there came a bit of rain in the wind. After making sure that everyone knew the plan for the evening I started preparing dinner, and had some dessert as well for good measure.

A single hiker from the west stomped on by without slowing down, but that seemed to be the last of the day's visits, so even though the place was quite full it was still manageable. I wrote a list of corrections for the signs in the area and went up to the main cottage to give it to Lo, her being part of the County Administration of Norrbotten who manage them, and ended up talking for a long while with her and her companions while the Poles ate. The sauna schedule seemed to be working well, and now the wind had abated quite a bit too.

I read some in my bed and then did some maintenance work, and while I was at it two people came walking on the western trail in the last light; as expected these were the mountain climbers, and they had indeed reached the top despite the circumstances. The wind was back to strong and gusty as I had my evening snack, and I had to run the heater at semi-high power to fight off the chill. The last sauna group had gone in, so with that I called it a day and went to bed just before 22.

Thursday 7/9

It was yet another gusty morning, and some snow still crowned the peaks. It was, however, not quite as cold, and the cloud content had decreased. The students made an early start and headed off east, but the rest of the guests were in no great hurry – and the Polish group was to stay another night. As I completed the most extensive sauna cleaning yet people started to leave, with the group aiming for Moskánjávri, and now the weather was steadily improving save for the continued windiness.

When everyone was out I went through all areas and did my thing, after which a German hiker aiming for the Cairn stopped by for a quick chat. Shortly thereafter another two Germans came biking up the ATV track on fatbikes, resulting in another chat before they continued towards Signaldalen. As it was now rather nice outside I decided to go for a short outing in the opposite direction to get a good view of the fall and the autumnal forest with the snow-capped peaks as a backdrop, setting out at 11:00.

I walked the ATV track downwards, finding the surroundings autumnal indeed, and as soon as I got into the forest the wind all but disappeared. I negotiated a large puddle at the lowest point, but then the uphill slope across the little bridge was completely dry in contrast. Behind me the view grew in splendor, and after walking for about half an hour I came up to a large gravel patch with a sizeable rock along the upper edge, where I stopped and started photographing all around before sitting down on said rock.

Going down...

...from my cottage...

...beside a brook

Another brook

Going up

First view of the fall

Still up

Fantastic wide shot

Zoomed

It was both sunny and windy, and I had the down jacket on from time to time. After eating my lunch I walked around some more, going up a bit further to the sparsely wooded top of the ridge, and then stood looking out over the valley for a good while before starting to head back at 12:30.

Going down was a nice experience akin to a living tunnel, and once the sides grew less steep in the opposite slope I broke off towards the military's cabin. I didn't go all the way, though, but rather circled back around and came upon the little path that connected said building with the track. The clouds were now rapidly returning, obscuring the sun, and as I returned at 13:00 two people whom I had seen higher up the eastern heights earlier arrived at the guest cottage.

Panorama over the fall, the massif,
the cottages, and the top of Bárrás

Even more colors...

...in the vegetation

Tunnel

Gushing

Almost back

Cottage site

Warden's cottage

Guest cottage

I went up to meet them, learning that they were Finnish (duh) and had a reservation. After a quick (and cold) wash a single Austrian man arrived, and he only spoke a few words of English, but in the end I managed to ascertain that he wanted to stay the night, with no interest in the sauna but instead for procuring chocolate. I also found out that he had walked all the way from Austria(!) during the last five months and was now on the last leg to Nordkapp. Shortly thereafter two booked Finns came from the north, and these were interested in the sauna.

Later in the afternoon I espied the group returning across the open terrain rather than on the trail on the other side of Bealčánjohka, and once they were back I started making another sauna schedule. Another two tenting Finns added to this, and having lit and tended to the fire I sat down for dinner. Just after that a group of eight Finns arrived from the east, which presented a problem since I no longer had eight beds to spare – and the ones I did have were spread out. In the end they crammed everyone into the dog room – which has four beds – leading to the first (and only) over-capacity night of my period.

It was now almost still and I stood outside for a while. Visibility was also full, or would have been had the light not been fading, and it wasn't too cold. As everything seemed to be in order I made an early night and read for a while before turning off my own light.

Friday 8/9

The next morning was mostly cloudy and held some wind, but nowhere near the previous days. All the guests left as the forenoon progressed, and I had a good deal of cleaning to do. It was now quite warm outside – also a stark contrast – and the feeling of autumn was strong. I made one final batch of bread, adding dried berries as a strengthener, and then fashioned tags for the gas canisters outside.

After lunch I did some paperwork and then prepared final garbage handling. I also tidied up in the storage shed, with a most pleasing result. It was growing warmer all the while – now up to 19°C – and it was getting lighter. Three booked Finns came from the north, with two nights to their reservation, followed by two more who were to tent. I started packing up my stuff and then welcomed another Finnish/German trio who were headed for Moskánjávri. The wind had now picked up again, and a dark cloud hung over the massif. Two Norwegians soon arrived, and a bit later two Finns walked across the heath directly to the tent patch and put up camp there.

After dinner I tended to the boot soles one final time, and spent a while outside in the pleasant evening. Later on I was alerted by one of the Finns that there was a new arrival who had failed to announce himself, and upon going up to check I learnt that this was a Czech man who was working his third summer in Kilpisjärvi. The rest of the evening was a windy affair, but the actual feeling was not as bad as the sound of it, and it was still warm.

Saturday 9/9

The warmth and stillness continued throughout the night, but when the morning came there was some wind again, carrying some drops with it. I cleaned out the sauna more thoroughly, this being the penultimate time, including the accumulated ickiness in the drain – and also managed to remove some debris from the water tank's tap, restoring proper flow from what had lately been but a trickle. While I was at it two Norwegian runners in light attire came from Gappo, and would continue on to the Cairn before returning to their starting point.

The people down on the tent patch inquired about the tour to the Bealčán summit, intending to execute it later in the day. I continued with closing preparations and also did one final round of laundry outside while the wind increased, but it was rather sunny and quite warm. I went through the storage compartments again, getting everything ready, and then finalized my reports as far as possible; there was still one day left that could affect them.

After lunch the wind was strong enough to play havoc with the drying line, and I eventually hung the garments indoors instead; they had dried fairly well so far anyway. After some more chores down in my own cottage it was time to take on the main one, where I performed season-end cleaning of the ten-bed room, which took some time and was quite a warm affair, and then tentatively shut it. Outside intriguing shadows played across the land – a land that was now ablaze with the colors of autumn everywhere.

Later on a couple of Finns came from the north, opting for the tent/sauna combo, and after looking around and judging the wind for some time they put up their tent below the main cottage. I continued to pack up and prepare what I could, while some light showers passed by. A single Swedish woman then came from the north, and after some deliberation she decided to follow the Finns' example – upon finding out that I had "field towels" for sale. It was now time to prep the sauna for the last time, and while I did so the final booked guests arrived in the form of two Finns and a large dog.

While I was having dinner and dessert two more people approached from the north, but they never showed up at either cottage, and eventually I saw them moving off along the eastern trail. Some time later another Finnish girl came from the east, thereby achieving the honor of being the last official guest of the season. While the sauna sessions were underway a family of four came walking up the ATV track, but they were to camp a kilometer or so further north so my hopes for a final session of my own were still high as the "exchange rate" of the people using it left a window at the end.

While I read the last of my books the Bealčán pair returned, again in the last light, and they had also managed to attain their goal (it took them nine hours). I had my evening snack and then waited for the sauna to clear, and when it did I went up and put more logs on the fire, wanting to max it out this final time. The result was very, very good, and the wind outside made cooling off a breeze (as it were).

During my outings I observed a man at the lee gable of the main cottage, and eventually I realized that he had arrived in the dark and was now putting up a small tent right next to the wall. As this was a potential fire hazard I quizzed him about his intentions re: stove use once I was done with my own stove use, and with very broken English (from somewhere on the continent, I guessed) I extracted a promise that he was only going to sleep, nothing else. With that I was done for this the final day of opening, and as though to mark the occasion a faint aurora appeared in the sky.

Sunday 10/9

The Swedish woman had already left when morning broke, but the rest were still present. It was still warm and there were still some light drops in the wind, but the feeling in the air was crisper. After breakfast I set about cleaning the sauna one final time, making a thorough job of it, while the wind came in strong gusts. When I was done only the Finnish girl was left inside the main cottage, so I went on to take care of the other four-bed room while the dog people visited the fall. I proceeded to take down various temporary signs, and once the cottage was clear I cleaned the last guest room as well.

Next up was the common kitchen and the recycling containers, some of which also contained garbage, and once that was halfway done the last guests had left so I locked the place up temporarily. The sun was out more and more but the wind was on the increase, so I had my lunch inside. After that I finished up what was left in the various spaces, being glad for the wind when I needed to cool off every now and then, and in the end the only thing left was the floor in the kitchen.

While I was taking care of that three cyclists came up the ATV track, and they appeared to enter the lower cottage. I kept to my task until I was finished, and then walked down to see what was up. The newcomers were Finns (oh yes) and did in fact intend to stay the night, which meant that only the dog room was available to them, at the reduced off-season rate – the place was now officially closed, but since I was still present we could take care of the payment straight away. Two more people came from the north, but they passed by and put up their tent some distance away along the eastern trail. The wind was now noticeably more chilly, and temperatures were dropping on the whole.

Rain'n'bikes

After a final dinner I did some equally final polishing acts, so to speak, and locked up for real. All that now remained, apart from cleaning my own room, was summarizing my reports and to write a handoff letter to the winter warden(s) – and to make sure the garbage compartment was in proper order. I prepared as much as possible for the morrow and then finished up all paperwork, sending one final e-mail before shutting down all gadgets. Outside the temperature had dropped to a meager 6°C, and it felt rather cold even though the wind had mostly abated. The cyclists had already gone to bed, and I did so as well for the last time in Pältsa at 22:00.