Summary
It is impossible to say that this tour was anything but successful – out of nine hiking days, I had one that was deplorable, two shaky ones with awesome parts, and six ranging from good to excellent, which is a most acceptable distribution. What was really valuable was that the first three days were of the latter kind, seeing as how that was the "critical" part where on the one hand bad weather could have made navigation troublesome, and on the other it would have hidden the grand landscape from view. As it was I got a great impression of the Mårma tract, and the ascent of peak 1810 (and especially the view of Höktopparna from there) was rewarding almost in the extreme. I also found the region less stony (or at least less problematically stony) than one might think beforehand, and the cute little Mårma cabin served its purpose really well; I only hope that it can be allowed to continue its quiet existence on the fringe of the frequented routes.
Turning to the start of the trip, I have nothing but praise for the haute route above Visttasvággi, and this for several reasons. The first is one of sights that I touched upon previously – the grandeur of the valley and the bordering Kebnekaisian groups on the other side can be fully appreciated with no great effort; indeed, had the clouds been a tad higher I would have seen the South Peak itself for extended periods of time. Another reason is that this constitutes an easier route to Mårma compared to the "pass", and I found Leavášvággi itself to be much worthy of a visit on its own merits – and this is a much shorter way to make such a visit compared to the Årosjokk trail. Lastly, the route as such is easily travelled, with pleasant heathland large parts of the way and wide vistas all the time. Recommended!
Now, after the three great days at the start it was a bit of a downer to wake up to low clouds and impending rain on the fourth, since Alip Vealevárri had been an important goal right from the start, but as told that day ended in an unbelievable, flabbergasting, awe-inspiring event that had a profound effect on me. It can be summed up thus:
WOW!
Having had that experience I felt like I had accomplished what I had set out to accomplish, and that the rest of the tour could come as may and I would still consider the whole thing a great success. The following day didn't have to be as bad as it was, of course, but that too is an interesting experience and reaching Pieggaluoppal (which I have been wanting to return to ever since my first visit) at the end of that day had a good dampening effect, so to speak. The climb over from Abiskojaure to Kårsavagge was satisfying, and the properties of Gorsavággi make "above" the best perspective from which to view it – Elves or not. That "little" detour also allowed me to finally meet Emma in person, and I got to pay a visit to Frippe's fall as well, which is a must when one is in the area.
So, again, a splendid journey this was. There has been no other, splendid or otherwise, since, and now the season is drawing to a close. As golden fall the leaves in the wind my thoughts therefore turn to fjelds and highland overlaid with a silent blanket of white, and skiing thereon...