Tuesday 30/6 – Saturday 4/7

Tuesday 30/6

The early morning held low clouds and the ground was moist, but at the moment no rain was falling. As I got up at 8 the latter had changed, however, and it soon developed into full-blown rain, even though the heights were often visible through the clouds. After breakfast I started baking bread, after which the scientists were just about ready to leave.

The intensity of the rain oscillated back and forth during the afternoon, and a wind made things rather cold outside. As dinnertime was approaching I finally spotted two hikers at the (visible) top of the Abiskojaure path, so I surmised that these were the two I had heard about yesterday. Since they were both still a good distance away and moving rather slowly I had ample time for dinner and dessert.

When they eventually reached Gorsajohka they seemed quite hesitant about where to go – and whether to go across at all – but in the end I managed to get them down to the outflow with an array of gestures. I also walked down to the water to serve as an anchor for the best line across, and after some (as in a lot of) hesitation and toe-thawing pauses on the larger rocks out in the water I could guide them safely (but coldly) to my side. After I had seen them inside and made sure they were alright I let them get settled in peace, as the peaks were emerging from the clouds. After a while I returned to take care of business and talk about their continued path, which would take them to(wards) Björkliden. Nothing else happened this cold day, which however ended on a more positive note with a pretty light across the lake.

Wednesday 1/7

The next day started out cloudy but light, and as the morning broke a cold westerly wind picked up. After checking in on my guests I called STF to report the June visitor figures, which were nothing impressive but still well above zero, and then said goodbye as the others left. The rest of the time up until lunch saw an almost complete lack of activity on all parts, and the most interesting thing about the afternoon was that I baked a cake.

There had been a few drops in the air for some time, but when afternoon tea had passed these turned into actual light rain and somewhat lower clouds. The evening was a rainy and windy one so there was no reason to venture outside unless strictly necessary, and eventually I felt the need to light the gas heater to fend off the deepening chill. I spent the time reading and listening to the radio, going to bed at 22:15 after this my first solo day.

Thursday 2/7

It was a rainy and misty night, and in the morning the peaks were lightly powdered, so warm it was not. There was rain on and off in the forenoon, and after doing some work I spent most of it indoors. In the afternoon conditions improved, so I went out to take up the sawing project, and as I did so the sun gradually returned. I then went for a walk along the water, finding a sheltered place for bathing/washing close by, returning inside when more clouds were approaching from the inner parts of the valley.

Fresh powder...

...on the peaks...

...around the valley

Gorsačohkka emerging

Better conditions

Nice color

Lonely house

After dinner the clouds broke apart again, and I decided to try out the washing place; it was cold as few, but worked well otherwise. Since it was still rather cold I turned on the heater again, but this time I had a fair bit of trouble getting it to stay on, but eventually I managed to convince it to do so. I observed two people coming along the trail far away, and shortly thereafter two kids came running up, soon followed by their parents – who were much closer, so those other two were a different company. The latter turned out to be a couple on their way to visit the Latnjajávri scientists, but due to the weather they didn't feel up to making the climb this evening and instead inquired about beds in Kårsavagge, and since the family were the only other guests this worked out.

Sun on the snow

Sun on the roof

Sun on the cliff

Having settled everything I called Ackie, a former Kårsavagge warden whose vacancy I had filled at the moment; she had tried to reach me earlier, and we spoke about present conditions since she had friends on the way up. It was a nice enough evening, but definitely a cold one, and the clearing skies promised an even colder night.

Friday 3/7

Hung out to dry

It was indeed cold and clear during the night, but with a pretty light on the peaks – and in the morning the water formed by the nearby melting snowfield had even acquired a (thin) ice sheet. After the usual morning procedures I put on water and prepared to wash clothes, employing a large, low plastic box previously occupied by books for want of a proper tub. As I did my thing out on the porch of the warden's cottage the two visitors left, and once I was done the family departed as well. Having cleaned the guest cottage, which took longer than usual – this being the first time both rooms were occupied at the same time – I prepared for a short lunch walk, and went out at noon.

I took the shovelled path up onto the hills, noting that the drift had shrunk to about half its size already, and sat down upon the closest hilltop to eat. After a while I walked off again, first following the upper path leading westwards, then breaking off onto a smaller one leading up to a collection of large rocks, where it dwindled to nothing. From there I picked my way up the slope, navigating the low bushes with the help of natural breaks and swaths. I continued up to another set of rocks, from where I started descending beside the large snowfield that still lay across the lowest parts of the northbound path, coming onto said track right above the signpost at the split at 12:45.

Gorsavággi up

Pointy

Cottage below

Gorsavággi down

I moved the drying laundry around a bit and then went out to try my hand at fishing. I started out by going down to the washing place, where I stood casting from a nearby rock that offered access to somewhat deeper waters. There was a bit of wind and sun, although the latter was frequently hidden by clouds. Suddenly I caught not a fish but the bottom, and for all my efforts – and they were extensive in both time and space – I was unable to dislodge the spinner, so in the end I had to admit defeat and cut the line. Having fixed a new spinner I tried again from another rock close to the large snowfield extending out into the water, where it was deeper and therefore safer with regard to further losses, but no luck.

I continued above the snow to the next little bay where the depth was also enough for some casts, after which I proceeded out onto the following headland. Here I found and mentally noted several good campsites, but fishing was trickier due to more shallow waters and treacherous surface rocks. The next bay was no better, so eventually I packed up and returned along the winter trail, where there was a faint path most of the time, then across another snowfield to the summer trail which brought me back to the cottage at 15.

Iceberg

Patterns

On the headland

A helicopter was making several runs to the same spot close to Vuolimus Gorsajávri, and I guessed that there were more fishing people afoot (or, rather, a-rotor). Several cloud fronts were rolling in, and after dinner it got cloudier still, with darker skies to the east which made for an intriguing light. Later in the evening a single woman came down the Låktatjåkka path, having gone directly from the bus via Trollsjön and (the still closed) Låktatjåkka, so she was now rather spent. After she had settled inside I found out that she was on a longer tour that would even include a visit to Sarek later on, so this first (booked) cottage night was merely a convenience at the start as the forecast spoke of rain during the night. She turned out to be the only guest of said night, and I turned in in a distinct chill.

Saturday 4/7

In the morning there was a light rain falling, as promised, and there was a bit of wind as well. The woman had already left and completed the ford, for now I saw her crossing through the osier on the other side to reach the Abiskojaure path. As I had a calm breakfast the rain petered out and the clouds started lifting somewhat, even letting some weak sunlight through. I spent the time up until lunch reading through various information material and old tour reports while listening to the radio.

After the meal I continued sawing firewood, which was now having a noticeable impact on the pile, and when I was done for the day I felt that the first stack was now completed. As if in recognition of this remarkable feat the clouds broke up for real, revealing the sun again from time to time, and it felt less cold. I saw a total of four people approaching along the trail, the chasing pair moving much faster than the leading one, and shortly before reaching the cottage they overtook the others as they carried very little. As I had guessed these were the fishermen from the lower lake, and they wanted to check out the cottage now that they were in the area.

Melting quickly between the buildings

Still thick across the stream

The other two were campers who asked about the paths to both Låktatjåkka and Abiskojaure, and then sat down against the wall to have dinner before deciding their next move. Another pair of hikers were coming down the Abiskojaure path, and I watched their (slow) crossing in socks(!) with the food couple. Eventually the newcomers made it up, and after drying their feet for a while they continued downtrail to the headland I had visited yesterday and the campsites there. After the other two had made the crossing in the other direction I sat down for dinner and dessert, reading through the last of the old wardens' notes.

Four people with at least one dog were coming along the trail, and two more (without dogs) were coming down the Låktatjåkka path, but all of them appeared to head for campsites closer to the lake. Eventually half the quartet walked up to get the latest info about the paths through and out of the valley, and in the end decided to camp where they had left the others before trying for Abiskojaure on the morrow. It was a pretty evening with the sun glinting on the water, so I went for an evening walk of my own.

Guest cottage from one angle...

...and from another

My cottage

Fair Gorsavággi

Falling

Tenters on the other side

A bit later a single man arrived who wanted to camp beside the cottage; he had originally planned on going further south, but had been forced to turn back before Alesjaure because of a failing rucksack, so now he used one he had rented in Abisko. No more people were on the move, and all the tents I could see – which was by now a fair number – were closed, so it was a quiet night.