The advance reports were correct: Kutjaure is indeed a great place to be, warden or not. It should be apparent by now that I like to move about during my wardenships – and I did make some fine tours this time around as well – but more often than not I was content with just sitting on the porch, or going for a stroll in the vicinity. The view from the cottage is very wide and spacious, with Áhkká, the "Swan valley" and the northernmost peaks of Sarek National Park standing out beyond the surface of Guvtjávrre, and this is a function of the landscape: the elevation of the cottage is not very high, but there simply is nothing in the way in that direction.

Turning to the second part of the subheading, the waters made a great impression (just like during the preamble), and I am here chiefly thinking of Sieberjåhkå. First of all the two falls close to the cottage were a constant source of appreciation (and noise), and the heavy rains allowed them to show what they were capable of. Next, the upper fall was an impressive sight at any time, and towards the end it had swelled considerably; this was also the given bonus target for people arriving early or staying another night, and none were disappointed. The true high point in this department, however, is of course my discovery of "Ruovdásjvuolle", with its insistence on feeling like much more than it was, and I now have a very strong desire to make camp there (or on the adjacent plateau) sometime.

When I arrived it was fairly cold, and the early signs of autumn were already in place, with snow on the peaks and all, so everyone was expecting the season to shift sooner rather than later. This suited me fine, especially since the situation had been reversed the last time I closed up a cottage in the Padjelanta area. However, after a few nights of not-quite-frost summer returned in force, and everything was put on hold. It was not until the final days that autumn really caught on again, and the walk to Vaisaluokta was actually more satisfying than expected color-wise.

A desirable effect of the sudden fairness was the opportunities it presented for outings, and the visit to the top of Gådotjåhkkå was nothing short of spectacular – with no hyperbole I declare that one of the very best spots to be in the Swedish fjelds, even if it is the Norwegian ones that create much of the effect. From there one surveys a tract that is on the one hand typical of Padjelanta, with rolling rises and exceedingly wide views towards high and pointy peaks in the distance, and on the other is largely desolate, for very few people move in these parts of the Park. The gentle Gådotjåhkkå itself is not in any way an impressive fjeld with its 1000 meters above sea level, but I cannot stress enough what great awards await those who make the more than easy ascent.

As far as visitor numbers were concerned my expectations of a calm period were pretty much met, since the larger masses had already passed. In fact, there was sort of a sharp bound at the weekend when I took over, after which there were never very many people about at once – at least not on the western branch where I was. Earlier during the summer the situation had been very different – even in Kutjaure – and on the whole all fjeld regions showed a significant increase in visits compared to the year before. This sudden tranquility together with the beautiful view from the doorstep had a calming effect on the author as well, and I could enjoy not doing very much at all. Now winter is just about here and I think more and more of skiing to come – first up is an extended telemark weekend in Ramundberget with ÖTC, and after that we'll see...