Wednesday 18/2 – Saturday 28/2

Wednesday 18/2

When I got up to make breakfast Ulla was already finishing up hers. In Jokkmokk it was apparently still –35°C outside, but here it was now "only" about –20°C, which was a relief. The reason for this was a cloud front having passed overhead, but the banks it pulled behind it did not fill every blank. I packed up and put on a good deal of clothes, since I was to sit still on a snowmobile for quite some time. Just after 8 Sture, colleague of Tobbe the caretaker, came up to the station, and we loaded his sled with our stuffs. As we did so and talked some things over, Gasskájvo was emerging from the haze that had obscured everything west of the village, and a red light appeared upon Nammásj. Then it was time to depart, with me behind Sture and Ulla in the sled.

I would have managed quite alright had it not been for the naked metal I had for handles, which meant that my hands – gloved as they were – grew colder by the kilometer. The first part of the trail is embedded in forest, and is somewhat hilly and uneven, but upon reaching Dáhtájiegge and the Dáhtá lakes going was more smooth and the views started to widen. Specifically Gábllá became a more and more striking backdrop feature, and beneath its foothills the trees were nicely frosted. We reached the Pårte cottages some time before 9, and now the sun had started to shine here and there on higher ground. While Ulla and Sture started to unload Ulla's things and open up the warden's compartment I went for a jog, as much to get my temperature up as to achieve a good angle from which to photograph the place. Following that I snooped around the premises, and then we all had a light snack inside.

A light behind...

...Gábllá

The main guest cottage

Orientation shot

For the next stage I situated myself in the sled, as comfortably as I could, and off we went. Shortly the tarpaulin covering the cargo loosened itself partially and started flapping in the drag, and I did my best to hold it down. Another thing which quickly occurred was an unintentional reindeer hunt, where a small herd of the animals ran ahead on the packed trail rather than venturing out into the deep fluffy snow, but when we came to the small lakes before Rittak Sture hit the accelerator and overtook them.

Out on Rittak itself I risked snapping a couple of shots, as things were smooth for a while, but then we came to Tjaktjajávrre which was anything but smooth. This is a large reservoir for the Seitevare power plant – the construction of which ruined a sacred Sámi location, in keeping with a proud track record – and when its capacity is tapped into during winter the ice sinks and eventually cracks over rocks and shoals on the bottom; the whole area is often described as having a distinct lunar look and feel.

The crossing of this strange "lake" was unproblematic as such, however, but I was having a problem of a different nature – namely that my feet were going very cold, and I did what I could to get the blood flow going, which was not that easy a task given my situation. In the end I managed alright, and I could appreciate the view of Rapadalen and Skierffe – the hallmark of Aktse – as we emerged onto Lájtávrre. Two people were out fiddling with firewood by the SNF cottage, which is the first one sees in the settlement's clearing, since the STF cottages lie further up the slope. It was not quite 11 when we arrived at the latter, and I immediately got up to shake my feet properly.

Crossing Rittak

Favnoajvve and Huornnásj

There was a persistent beeping coming from the upper guest cottage, so I started my familiarization process by going there, and as expected it was the smoke detector that was acting up. The Aktse cottages are three in number, and the middle one houses the firewood supply, a storage room, a shop, and the warden's quarters, which is accessed through the shop door. Sture unlocked this door and a quick inspection confirmed that everything I had sent up in advance was present.

My living quarters-to-be were comfortably warm thanks to the gas heater's having been running at full power for a few days, and this had also solved the problem of one of my boxes which contained things which were not to freeze could it be helped. As for the room itself, I found it rather cozy; it was not very large, but since I was to be alone that was of little concern. Having unloaded the sled we took the snowmobile down to the water hole to fetch me water; this hole is located in the forest back along the trail, so it is a good distance away, which is why there are large plastic containers with ropes for winter use (in summer a hose brings water directly to the cottages). When this task was completed Sture went on to Sitojaure, and my wardenship period began for real.

By then it was clear and sunny, but a bit of haze remained further into Sarek. I set about working at once, shoveling a good path to the privy (essentials first), and then I went down to say hi to the others, who were still at the firewood. These turned out to be a couple of German ladies who were staying in the SNF cottage for five weeks (at least one of them was), and as I later found it this was the tenth year in a row that they did so, always choosing the early season due to an affinity for the cold fluffy snow and because there are hardly any other people about. Both also spoke Swedish, which was scarcely surprising under the circumstances.

I walked around some more taking photographs and then returned up to my place for lunch. After eating I called Siv at the STF office to report that I had made it out alive, and then I started unpacking the food that I had ordered – and discovered that a couple of canned provisions were missing, which while annoying was no big deal seeing as how I had an entire shop around me. Now the sky was clear also over Sarek, and I decided to make use of the great weather, so I dug out the telemark stuff and changed into more appropriate attire.

A soon-to-be-well-known view

This, this is Aktse

And these are the STF cottages

That's Tjahkkelij

The SNF cottage

Beautiful

I set off before 15, following the stretch of the summer trail that starts right behind the upper cottage. What struck me at once was how light the skis felt, and also how well they carried in the loose snow, and it was a simple matter going up through the forest, where hare tracks were in abundance. Above the coniferous belt the trees grew sparser, and I found my own way. Higher up the snow was harder, and above the tree line the wind had turned the crust into an uneven surface of concrete. The sun was just setting behind Tjahkkelij, and I chased the terminator upwards, while inwards the Bårdde massif was just shedding the last of the day's clouds. I crossed a couple of old ski tracks leading off in the direction of Skierffe, and proceeded up onto the penultimate crest of Doaresoajvve where I took off the climbing skins.

Going down was no easy matter due to the toughness of the snow, but the views more than made up for it. I went more straight down at first, then started turning towards my own tracks, and when I reentered the forest the snow got better. Now I could really have some fun, and further down among the spruces it was all soft and deep, and I could now fully appreciate the skis in their right element. Suddenly I came to a large area of medium-sized rocks, which was obviously impassable, so I labored to get past it sideways which brought me back to my upward tracks, and I got a good run down the last bit.

About to go up

Going up

Rapadalen view emerging

Pointy Skierffe

Bårdde shedding clouds

Lájtávrre below

Lower Tjaktjajávrre further away

The sun about to set behind Tjahkkelij

A bit of Skierffe

Tjaktjavárre and more

Jagged Sarekkian skyline

Back inside I continued with all those little things that need doing at the start, during which one of the Germans came in with a pile of books she had borrowed earlier. Outside there was not a cloud to be seen, and consequently it was getting steadily colder. I listened to some radio and then had dinner, reading in the cottage site's info material while eating. The light faded quickly, but above Tjahkkelij Venus was rising. I took it easy with more radio in the candlelight, doing very little in the way of work for the rest of the evening. The stars were all out, the shapes of the fjelds all stood out in the not-quite-darkness, and the thermometer said –23°C. I had the first of many evening snacks and listened to the first of many weather reports, and then thankfully turned in after 22:15.

Thursday 19/2

I slept well to the morning weather report, and when I looked out I found that there was a heavy fog on the lake, but otherwise it was all clear. This mandated a morning photo walk, which took place in a cold of –25°C and a wind of 0 furlongs/fortnight. After breakfast the top of the fog started sinking, and the dawn that was in progress gave a very nice light. I readied some foodstuffs I wanted to freeze and put them out into the snow in a box – winter wardenship is easy that way – and then I put on clothes and went out to dig a path to the swill disposal.

Tinted Skierffe

View from the privy

My abode

This took quite some time and effort, since the snow was deep and loose all the way through, so I had to dig to the ground. When I was done I checked the status of the gas systems, discovering a cracked tube outside the lower cottage, but that was not acute since I did not expect to need that building for some time yet. Instead I went through the upper one thoroughly, readying it for the season, and started changing the mattress covers – it was cold enough that after a while I thought it best to make a fire in the heater, which I did.

By lunchtime most of the fog had disappeared, and after an omelette I continued my tasks. I also spent a fair bit of time searching for various items I knew should have been shipped out, and finally I located them in some more or less hidden boxes. I now thought the upper cottage was ready to be officially opened, so I marked the occasion in the guest books. Being satisfied with my work I went down the field to photograph – it was exceedingly fair, and as I was returning up the slope the sun set behind Tjahkkelij.

Foggy

Somewhat less foggy

Lullihatjåhkkå

Tjahkkelij above the fog

The lower cottage

Island in the lake

Sundown

The SNF cottage

Clouds coming over Gábllá

The settlement in shadow...

...but not the STF cottages

Back inside my cottage I unpacked the rest, and also packed some boxes of my own with stuff that was to be conveyed elsewhere, as ordered. I then went down to the lower cottage to take care of that tube, which took some time as the end fixtures were rather, well, fixed. I succeeded, though, and the leak test showed a negative result. By now it was pretty cloudy, a few flakes were falling, and it was no longer that cold. I prepared and ate my dinner, complete with a good drink and dessert, and then concentrated on the various papers I had been given. Outside the flakes kept falling, but I could see stars through them. I rested and read for a while before it was time to snack, and as I was going to bed it was snowing more perceptibly.

Friday 20/2

The morning was overcast with a few breaks in the east, and a thick haze enveloped Aktse. After breakfast this haze started to dissipate, being pierced by the light of dawn; this gave rise to a curious optical effect which I went out to record. I then got to work, putting out signs and utensils, and then declared the lower cottage officially opened. I also started taking inventory in the shop, relabelling various items as I went, and while I was at it the weather first declined and then picked up, so when I was done after noon I made a food pack and went out on a lunch tour.

Wearing the telemark skis I went into the forest behind the privy, going slowly up the slope. The snow was deep and soft but the skis continued to carry well, although progress was still hampered by the density of the trees, and the presence of rocks and logs. All the time there were hare tracks about, and sometimes I agreed with their creator about the preferred route. Eventually I came up into the birch region, where things were both more spacious and more level, and at long last I reached the Sitojaure trail. The sun had been shining unchecked up until then, but just now it disappeared into a bank borne out of the southwest. I went on up to the last birches, against one of which I sat down to eat at 13.

Through the forest

On the trail

Tjahkkelij

Nammásj and Skierffe

Lájtávrre below

Resting

The Laitaure shelter

Not long thereafter I got going again, some distance above the tree line noticing a snowmobile track that went off northwestwards, breaking off the main trail, and I followed on the side of this. After a bit I heard engine sounds from above, and soon enough three snowmobiles came down the side track. The snow grew harder the higher I got, and when I reached an intermediate crest I decided that there was no point in going further, so I stopped to take the skins off. Going down was tricky at first, with the hard crust breaking unexpectedly, but it got better later on, and beside the trail it was rather good. I continued straight down into the forest, where it was similarly great'n'fun as last time, and after a horizontal displacement bringing me close to the trail again I set off downwards once more. Towards the end I returned to the trail, which I followed home; skiing with this equipment went pretty well right up until the final slope out on the field, which took some effort.

Panorama over Tjårok, Tjaktjajávrre and Tjaktjavárre

Light beyond Gábllá

Onto the field

The time was now 14:15, and while I stretched my legs a very weak sun gave way to whiteness coming from Sarek, bringing some snow. I then set about organizing my "sale shelf" in the shop, where I put everything that was reduced in price, and when I was nearly done there was a knock on the door. The person responsible for this turned out to be Anne-Sophie Läntha, who together with her husband Lennart are more or less permanent residents of Aktse, and we talked for a bit before she bought some of my recently organized candy. After she left I had dinner, and then I noticed that the charge indicator for the accumulator was turning yellow, so I switched to the gas lamp for the time being. I did the final things I needed to do in order to have the shop operational, and then settled down to read and rest etc. It had been snowing lightly during the evening, but when I was going to bed around 22:15 the clouds were breaking up revealing the stars.

Saturday 21/2

The next day started out calm but snowy and misty, and I hurried not at all in getting my breakfast. After that I fiddled with the phone and then went to get some extra water, bringing down a bucket and a funnel to facilitate the filling of the containers. The German women were out working with their firewood again, so I stopped by for a chat before returning up, where I too started digging into my own pile of logs. See, it is the task of the winter warden(s) to saw those logs into meter lengths, and pile them outside for drying, and this task I now commenced. Then Sture arrived as expected with a sizeable delivery to the shop, and we unloaded the stuff together and talked for a bit. As he left I took the opportunity to get rid of a number of parcels headed elsewhere, and then I started unpacking the ones not.

After lunch it was snowing heavily, but that did not matter much as I had my work cut out for me – sorting and placing all the goods on the shelves was time consuming, but one should also remember that what I had to work with was far less than what was to arrive later in the pre-summer stock-up. In the midst of it all four snowmobiles pulled in, carrying four Norwegians who asked the way to Stora Sjöfallet – the nature of Kungsleden in the forest is such that if you don't look at the signs it is easy to end up on the Aktse field by mistake, and then get all confused as to where you should go, or should have gone. The upside was that I got to sell some candy, though. I went on with my activity, and now it was snowing like crazy; already there had fallen quite a bit, and I took a break in order to clear the paths. Then three more snowmobiles came by (Swedes this time), but the only thing we exchanged this time was talk. I finished up in the store and then rested before it was time for dinner.

After the meal the snowfall decreased, and it was rather mild outside. I made some popcorn and started listening to the trials for the Swedish Eurovision on the radio, but after a while the indicator went strongly yellow, so I switched to a regular battery radio I had found in a cupboard. By the time of the late weather report it had stopped snowing, and despite not having done much in the way of physical exertion today it was with some fatigue that I entered bed.

Sunday 22/2

I took it easy in the morning, not getting up until 8. It was still snowing, but off to the east it was lighter, and there was no wind. I packed my day tour sack and changed clothes, wanting to take advantage of all the fresh snow, and went up along my summer trail tracks at 10. This time I tried another way up among the birches, but it turned out not to be a very good one, and I soon returned to the tracks, which despite the heavy snowfall were quite visible most of the time. It was all white above the tree line, where there was also a bit of wind, but I went on up to a cloven rock and then the next; here visibility was almost zero, so I went no further.

At first the complete lack of contrast made for some overly careful turns, but when I approached the trees things got much better, and I really enjoyed the ride. When things got thick and bumpy down in the forest proper I turned up again, coming onto the tracks soon enough, but I left them before clearing the trees, not going quite as far up this time. I went down past a crest that I thought had looked promising, and from there it was indeed really good; likewise among the spruces, and I went quite far down before stopping at a snowy rock field where I had lunch at 11:30.

On the summer trail

Whiteness

Cloven

Snowy

It was still mild and it was snowing ceaselessly, so I did not remain seated for too long lest I disappear in the fluff. I followed my downward tracks for a bit, then my upward ones from the last run, and then broke off towards the east, passing the sign directing people to Skierffe in summer. I proceeded to another hillcrest I had seen from afar, but here it was only the first short bit that was good, for after that the slope was too gentle. However, once into the denser forest things picked up again, and I wound my way down with some difficulty (of the sought-after kind). I went back up much the same way, but before reaching the hillcrest I turned back west, going over to one of the larger rocks before setting out on what was to be the last descent. This was OK but not stellar, and I ended up going fairly close to my original upward tracks, coming down to an empty place around 13:45.

At once I started clearing the paths, which had "filled up" quite well during the day, and then I had a good stretch followed by a good wash. Having completed these tasks I had afternoon tea and a fruit, and then Anne-Sophie came by with her two large (and eager) dogs. Then one of the Germans also came up to purchase quite a bit of candy and suchlike, and also to borrow some more books and to talk of course. When she had left I unpacked the last of my stuff and ordered things just as I wanted them, and then it was time for dinner. The evening was a calm one – so calm, in fact, that I inadvertently fell asleep and awoke suddenly around midnight when it was snowing again. Well, nothing much to do other than to brush my teeth and get right back to bed!

Monday 23/2

Now that's low

Some light

Once I had managed to get back to sleep I slept well until the late morning forecast. Outside the snowfall had ceased, but the ceiling was very low although there was no wind. After breakfast I went up to the storage compartment in the upper cottage and rummaged about, during which it started snowing heavily again. Towards lunchtime, however, things started looking up, and the sun was on its way out, so I prepared for a shorter tour in the delta and left just before 11:30.

Go to day tour report »

Upon returning I checked the guestbooks, but there were no signatures. I had an afternoon snack and a fruit while a short bout of snow passed; in over Sarek it was white, but otherwise there was quite a bit of blue sky. This later gave rise to a nice light, and eventually it started to clear for real, which was duly followed by a drop in temperature. After dinner I read some and went through the various stuff left behind over the years, sorting the old guestbooks chronologically. I also started reading in the large collection of fjället, the periodical of SFK, and before I knew it it was time for snack'n'weather. Outside it was snowing again but a few stars could still be seen, and inside it had started dripping from the firewood heater's chimney.

Tuesday 24/2

I slept well and awoke to a darn pretty predawn light, and it was just the right amount of cold outside – and no wind. This was perhaps lucky for me, as the gas heater had gone out; since the stove also refused to cooperate the gas canister had obviously been depleted. When the light grew I went out for a photo round down the field, and then I changed the empty canister. Having had breakfast I decided to go for a day tour, and as I considered my options it cleared more and more. In the end I decided to try for Sitojaure, and left at 09:15.

Go to day tour report »

On the door hung a bag containing two large fish, and I put one of them into my makeshift freezer at once, saving the other one in the "fridge" in the shop (which was simply a box the temperature of which held at about 5°C). I turned the heater back on and relaxed listening to the radio, reading some fjället later on. It was almost entirely clear now, but a large drifting cloud had formed further into Rapadalen, and soon an appreciable wind picked up. In the evening all the stars were out – it was exceptionally clear and crisp, and I could discern the fuzzy band of the Milky Way (or Vintergatan, the Winter Road, as it so fittingly is called in Swedish). I read some more fjället and then had a snack to some jazz on the radio, and when I was getting ready to turn in at 22 the wind had all but died down.

Wednesday 25/2

Sometime during the early night I was yanked from sleep by a sudden hefty gale, and throughout the rest of the night the wind came in powerful gusts. When I got up in the morning I had to force the door open, since a miniature snowdrift had formed outside it, and all around large quantities of snow had been displaced. In the general southeastern direction it was mostly clear, but everywhere else the clouds were low and thick; it was not very cold and actually not that windy on average, but when the gales hit they really hit, kicking up snow devils.

After a calm breakfast I put on clothes and went out to shovel; the path to the swill disposal had fared best due to its depth, but some work was required. Back inside I took it easy for a while; outside the only change was bouts of snow coming from the valley, but they added very little. When it was getting close to lunch the sun was out most of the time, but to the west there was still a solid white wall, and the gusty wind remained.

After eating I read some fjället and then went back out to take another crack at the logs, and I ended up producing quite a lot. As I did so the wind abated, and there were hardly any gales anymore, but I still had to dig out the pile I had started earlier in order to continue building on it. After taking out some stuff to storage I returned inside and started baking bread, as that which I had brought had just run out. This went well, save for the usual triggering of the fire alarm, and when I was done the sky was clear apart from the area around and above Gådokvágge. Without slowing down I launched into preparing the non-frozen fish for dinner, upon which followed extensive washing up. In the evening no clouds remained to hide the stars, and the now-lack of wind made for comfortable gazing conditions. I put out some of the fresh bread to freeze and then listened to the radio and read until the usual time, and the weather still saw no change.

Sun-snow

The upper cottage

Thursday 26/2

Also the next morning was mostly clear, but in the east there was a wide ribbon that extended across the sky. Again the dawn was most pleasing, and again I went out to shoot it. There was very little wind, and as I watched the few clouds that hung in over Sarek started to depart as well. After breakfast the ribbon was approaching, and the Sarekkian clouds were returning too, but above and to the northwest there was still nothing but blue, so I prepared for another attempt at Sitojaure, exiting just after 9.

Go to day tour report »

I checked out the upper cottage and found traces of someone having been there, but there were no signatures in the guestbook. Soon the German woman came back with the borrowed books and she also bought some more biscuits; she said that the police helicopter had touched down and those in it had asked for me in my absence, but that was the extent of it. Oh well. I started dinner while the western clouds drew closer, and then sat down to eat. Despite some high veils the stars started coming out as darkness fell, and above Tjahkkelij a thin crescent had just appeared. During the rest of the evening it got steadily clearer and colder, and I spent it by resting and reading, still not having gotten anything better to do.

Friday 27/2

It was still clear the next day, and the thermometer showed –18°C. I started this day by going for a combined water and photo excursion; nothing was obscured anywhere, which was the first time since the very first days on site, and the morning held a promise for an exceptional winter day. It should therefore come as no surprise that I started packing for a day tour immediately after breakfast, setting out at 09:15.

Go to day tour report »

Back home I observed the tracks of a number of snowmobiles having been up and then turned around, but there were no traces inside any of the open cottages. I put on some (as in plenty of) water, stretched and snacked while it heated, and then had a wash. Outside there were large chunks of clouds here and there, and a wee bit of a mist was forming around the peaks.

After a quick shower of snow I suddenly heard some sounds, and looking out the window I saw a group of dogs. I immediately recognized the shepherd dog belonging to Matti of Jokkmokkguiderna, whom I had encountered in Nallo, and I went out to greet the lot which this time consisted of four people save Matti himself. I went on to fire up the dog room, which was of course freezing, and spoke some more with Matti and one of his participants while the rest busied themselves with the dogs. As I went back down to prepare my dinner the clouds were lifting over Bårdde et al, but overhead it was cloudy and Skierffe had a cap.

Visitors! Yay!

Pretty dusk

Afterwards I went up to the others, who were just in the process of preparing their own dinner, and after a good deal of talking mostly in English (the group consisted of two Germans, one Frenchman and one Swede) I was more or less commanded to share the food. Outside stars were appearing, but not the full collection, and behind/above the light clouds on the northern sky a weak aurora could just be discerned. After the guests had tended to the dogs' nutritional needs I went back up to take care of business, and some candy and more talk followed. It had become somewhat gusty, but it was only further inside Rapadalen that there were any clouds to speak of. Feeling both tired and pleased that I had finally broken the zero in the guest stats I went to bed at 22:15, while the others remained up for some time yet.

Saturday 28/2

In the morning all clouds had gone, and so had the wind. I started breakfast, but when the light grew on the peaks I rushed out to photograph, and then rushed back in to eat. I went up to my guests to retell the weather forecast, which brought news of a fine day, and then looked over the map in search for a simpler day tour as I was feeling slightly worn. After packing the sack I took it easy for a bit, while the dogs were being fed their breakfast (consisting of large chunks of sausage), and when their masters had vacated the cottage I went up to check and then talked some with the Swede outside before saying goodbye around 10:15.

Go to day tour report »

A quick check revealed no activity in my absence, but soon three snowmobiles came, turned and stopped, so I went out to hail them, but since they showed no sign of wanting to do more than pause I returned inside and had afternoon tea and fruit. The sun had just set behind Tjahkkelij and now the late afternoon light played over the peaks, so naturally I had to go out and check it out before dinner.

After dusk the new moon appeared as well, which together with the increasing cold (–18°C when I checked) made for a nice wintery scene. I read for a bit and prepared some stuff that needed preparing, and then it was time for another radio session with popcorn and juice. Outside there was no change, and the crescent hung low very close to Skierffe looking decidedly yellow. At the same time a weak northern light came and went, and seeing no reason to wait it out any longer I just went to bed instead.