Sunday 15/3 – Friday 20/3

Sunday 15/3

The next morning was semi-clear and not too cold, with a bit of fog out on the lake. I went out for a little round and then looked over the map for a while before making breakfast. I then went up to my guests with a morning report, and gave the Swedes some tips about what to do – all four had decided to stay for another night, and the day looked to be a very fine one. Hence I was soon readying myself for a day out as well, and this time I wanted to try telemarking higher up Doaresoajvve; since all my sessions thus far had been during days with low clouds, that was yet to happen.

I started up the usual way at 09:30, finding the snow very good all the way. There were still some clouds hanging around the peaks of Bårdde and Gådoktjåhkkå, but otherwise it was now all clear – and warm. I continued up towards the tracks I had followed/made on my Jågåsjgaskaláhko tour, but turned westwards before making contact. I passed the second wolverine track of the day and went on to a large upended rock, where I removed the climbing skins and tightened the boots.

Snow conditions were superb, with only a few patches of wind-affection, and I glided further westwards every once in a while to hit better fields. I proceeded to a steep crest west of Aktsegállo, the large cloven rock which has given Aktse its name – bears have been known to make dens in the crevices, and legend has it that nine of them have been killed here (aktse means "nine"). This crest I had long meant to try out, but below it the snow had already turned sluggish in the strong sun so going was difficult; I had to resort to hop turns and did not persist for long. Getting back up was arduous, both due to the warmth and the condition of the snow; I had to be really careful about my choice of line up the steep slope. Once above the crest things went much smoother, but it continued to be hot, and there was no alleviating wind.

During my ascent I observed some skiers with sleds coming out of Sarek across the field of the settlement, turning up to the STF cottages, so I knew I had some more guests. This time I pressed on across the flatter region higher up, stopping when the Niehter massif came into view, and from there the way down held more of the "windy" patches. I stopped before the crest and turned back up for a third pre-lunch run, going in a mostly straight line to the same altitude as the original rock, and the descent took place in a slightly eastward direction, bringing me close to Aktsegállo. There Maria, the touring girl, had parked herself, and I joined her for lunch at 12:30.

The valley spreading out

A ptarmigan by a rock

Another rock

Sunny day

Ascending again (notice downhill track)

The previous rock from another perspective

Tjaktjavárre and beyond

Bårdde and Skierffe

By then there was not a cloud to be seen anymore, and the sun was really warming. We sat there talking and basking for quite some time, towards the end of which a bit of wind finally came. Maria then headed back east while I went straight up the slope, noting two people approaching from my right with skis on their backs, and I also saw another two people with sleds coming down the trail. The former pair were the Germans, who were walking with snowshoes, and after our paths had intersected they went on in a bend, eventually aiming for the top of Doaresoajvve.

Myself I soon turned my skis downhill again, and after another good run I tried out the steeper slope below the crest afresh, this time keeping to a section that seemed somewhat better, and now it was better. Going up was easier now because the tracks I had made earlier had had time to harden, and the heat problem was partially solved by way of thick veils coming from the southwest that slid in front of the sun, but it was also back to windless. When I reached the higher wolverine tracks I turned towards the summit, and as I approached it the sky grew more and more overcast, and the peaks further into Sarek started attracting clouds of their own. There was a wee bit of wind just as I came to the last rise, and upon it there was some more; this time I saw no reason to continue to the actual summit a few hundred meters further off, so I made the last change into downhill mode.

Now I was really starting to feel the effects of this full day, and it was not without some effort that I made my way down to the well-known "skiing crest" below, but the snow was still very good indeed. The last bit through the forest was more difficult, however, because there the snow had turned sluggish and did its best to overturn me, which it succeeded in doing a few times. I made a more or less elegant edge set in front of my cottage coming from a velocity that was perhaps a tad too high at 15:30, to the cheers of a group of people sitting outside the upper guest cottage.

Not bad for a lunch backdrop

Maria

High clouds on the way

High clouds come

Niehter and beyond

Northeast

Flat Gidátjårro

Tjaktjavárre and the lakes

The inevitable halo

"Så skåda vi med gamman hän, emot berg i blåa fjärran"

These consisted of four Swedish guys plus Maria and her father, and the former had just come out of Sarek (two of which were the ones I had seen). Shortly thereafter the Germans came back, and everyone except them went to visit the shop. A bit later two more Germans arrived, and after taking care of them I tried the heater one last time, with no luck, so the one remaining recourse was to change to a whole new canister. I did so and activated the heater, and then set about making and eventually eating dinner.

Later on I went up to the others, finding the newly arrived Germans and three of the Sarek Swedes (the fourth slept in a tent down on the field) already in bed, but the rest were still up. There was a long discourse about coconut fat, vegetable oils, yoga concepts and whatnot, mostly conducted in German, but I also got to "show off" a little with the very scant Russian I master. Outside the stars were visible except over Sarek, and inside the heater showed no signs of giving up. I had my evening snack and read some Utemagasinet, and when I was ready to go to sleep – feeling pleasantly tired after a great day – the sky was once again overcast.

Monday 16/3

After a good night's sleep including a fun romp of a dream involving some imaginary Russian fellow I was pleased to find the heater burning steadily, so apparently all my recent troubles had been caused by the gas canister itself. The fine weather had passed, however, and it was back to whiteness and whirling snowflakes. The new Germans left in short fashion, and the Swedish guys were also on the move, but the others took it easy still – and there the previous discussion was still active, it seemed.

The weather started to clear as I myself started to bake some more bread, and I just barely managed to catch the departers with a "до свидания а счастливого пути", which was well received. From there on the weather worsened, taking to strong gusts of wind and more cloudiness, especially to the west. Shortly before lunchtime a lone man came from Sitojaure, being clad in light attire with a similarly light pack, and rather than press on all the remaining 25 kilometers to Pårte he chose to stop at Aktse.

In the afternoon the shifting character of the weather continued, with keen wind, sun and clouds one after the other, and I spent most of the time indoors with radio and reading. Some time later the other man went off on an afternoon tour, and when the wind died down and the clouds parted I perched myself at the porch to read. Soon enough the other returned, and we talked some in the sun, but when said sun disappeared behind Tjahkkelij it quickly got chilly, and I returned inside. While I was having dinner two new Swedes came from Pårte, and when I had washed up I went over for a talk. All three had decided to spend two nights, and I related some advice as to what one could do with a free day. The stars were coming out, and after reading some more in my book I went out for some gazing – this was one of the clearest night in a while, excepting an area of the sky close to Skierffe. The others had already turned in, and I did so as well around 22.

Tuesday 17/3

It was a nice, sunny morning, with some clouds off to the south and in over Sarek, and no wind was blowing. After breakfast I went up to the others for the usual morning report, and the single fellow was already changing for a day tour up the valley. I started planning and preparing for a tour of my own, and after the remaining two had paid a visit to the shop (and just paid, period) I went out in light clothing at 09:15.

Go to day tour report »

The first thing that happened upon my return was that the man came out to talk (he enjoyed talking, that one); he had been up to the Litnok cabin, and unfortunately lost his cap somewhere along the way. I then had some fruit etc., and when the other two returned from their day tour I went out to meet them. Not long thereafter Matti arrived with four other dog teams, having once again taken the long way around Gidátjårro.

Dinner came and went, with a nice light upon the clouds, and I rested with my book for a while. Then Läntha's dogs marked the presence of someone down on the field, and sure enough a man with a sled came up just before 19, when it was almost dark. He had taken five days to reach Aktse from Ritsem, and unlike some other Sarek traversers of late he had found both the snow and the weather good during his tour. When he had taken up position among the other guests I went up to talk, again ending up having a second dinner with the dog group. The sky was getting more starry as the evening went on, and what wind there was also abated, so by the time I turned in it was rather nice and still.

Wednesday 18/3

I took my time getting up, but when I did I found the weather to be clear save for a good deal of clouds further up Rapadalen. The Sarek guy was just returning from a morning tour, and he had decided to stay for another night as well. After some conversation with my other guests the whiteness from up the valley was extending outwards, bringing some light snow in the sunlight. I received a call from Carl, who was to relieve me in a week's time, and then Anne-Sophie came up to 1) chat with Matti, 2) give me another arctic char, and 3) shop. Save for the dogsledders the staying man was the only remaining guest, and he sat out on the porch observing the canine preparations, eventually setting out on a day tour. Matti and his group then left, and after a fresh bout of snow the sun held sway once more. It was now almost time for lunch, so I just relaxed a bit until that "almost" was gone.

No more had I finished than I heard the sound of approaching snowmobiles, and as it turned out I got two simultaneous visits: first there was Birger who brought new indoor signs, and then there was a group of four from Saltoluokta being on a sightseeing trip. While Birger went inside to prepare his own lunch the others sat down on the porch for theirs, but they too entered the cottage when another heavy shower of snow hit. Then Birger and I sat about deciding where to put up the signs, and I was also given a bag of buns by the others. In short fashion both Tobbe and Sture also arrived, unloading goods to the summer wardens before going on to Sitojaure with new gas canisters.

Now the Salto people were departing, but they were replaced by another group of snowmobiles that stopped outside the lower cottage, where Birger and I went to put up more signs. All the while the weather shifted between sunny, snowy and windy, but conditions in Sarek were unchanged. I then went over my observations in the shop with Birger, and also took the opportunity to get rid of some things – such as Berta's box of food, for example, since he was going to Pårte next.

After an afternoon snack Tobbe and Sture came by again, and since they were now returning to Kvikkjokk with empty sleds they relieved me of the garbage I had produced, with good help from the guests, as well as the empty gas canisters. I did some work in the shop following my discussion with Birger, and since it was now sunny again I then went out on a photo walk. Before Birger left he had agreed to ferry some stuff of mine to Saltoluokta the next day, when he would be returning from Pårte, so I packed up said stuff – which consisted of the telemark equipment. I then went to take care of the fish out in the woodshed, and now a chilling wind was on the increase.

I had a delicious dinner and dessert, which was followed by a pretty twilight, and just before the light faded my one guest came back from a tour up Skierffe. After he had had a chance to settle down properly I went up to talk for a good while, and then finished my book. It was now starry indeed, and even though there was very little wind to be felt, it could be heard all around. A light evening snack followed, and then bed at 22.

Thursday 19/3

Feathers

I got up at 6, and since the light was awfully pretty I went for a photo round at once. The sky was mostly clear but still clouds lingered further in, it was 15 below and no wind. The other man was also up, but I returned to bed for a while longer. During our respective morning tasks it grew cloudier, but then it changed towards more clear conditions again, and I started thinking about a shorter tour. Just when I was about to leave Birger came back, and I helped him load my stuff, and then all three of us left around 10.

I had my climbing skins on right from the start, taking the northbound trail which now seemed somewhat less wavy than before. The ascent was comfortable, and looking into Rapadalen I saw a bit of sunlight upon Gådoktjåhkkå. I broke off the trail on some older tracks (probably of mine), then coming onto the ones leading directly to Amon Rûdh. On the hilltop it was entirely still at first, but then an easterly wind made itself known from time to time, and I remained standing for a long while looking out over the land. The sky held a large feather-shaped cloud structure originating in the southeast, between the vanes of which the sun reached select parts of the lake and the bordering slopes.

I then went down to the southern edge of the summit, making my way down northeastwards from there, coming out onto the side track just above the long slope down to the Sitoälvsbron trail. This slope had hardened of late, and the descent was therefore not for the weak of heart. Suddenly I heard a bustling noise just off to my right, and diverting what attention I could spare from the grander task of "not crashing", I caught a glimpse of a large bird which just might have been a capercailzie. When I reached the trail I continued straight ahead, crossing many animal tracks as I picked my way down the slope to the lower snowmobile track, which I also traversed and headed for the lake. There I followed the track going along the beach, and when I came to the little headland I broke off onto another, older one going out onto the lake.

I headed for the second closest island on snow that mostly carried, and then I crossed this island and went on towards Lijkkasuollu, the two constituents of which I also investigated. Going back the snow frequently broke beneath my skis, but it was better closer to shore. I aimed straight for the cottages, then going up past some sheds and a recent-looking cabin, later coming onto the snowmobile track leading to what is the boat landing in summer. This I followed all the way home, returning at 12:30.

More feathers

Light at the horizon

Lighter at Nammásj

Tjahkkelij's forehead

Still feathery

Passing a jetty

I had lunch at once, and it was not long before the Sarek whiteness brought some snow. The temporary fix to my ski boot that I had applied earlier had given way, and the damage was now worse than before, so I commenced a more thorough repair action. I also observed the returning dogsleds crossing the lake, and then they continued over the field into the delta; as for me, I contented myself with afternoon tea, radio and book. The dogsledders eventually came back at 16:30, and I left them be until they were done "parking", but then I went up and got some chips and candy. The clouds had lifted and some blue sky was to be seen again, but there was also an increasing wind which came in more and more forceful gusts. Following dinner these conditions remained in effect, and now the temperature had risen above freezing, which could be clearly felt since the winds actually seemed warm. I got some dessert from Matti and his crew, and then it was time for bed.

Friday 20/3

The night was a very uneasy one, for not long after I had turned off the light the wind really hit, and it only got worse from there; at times I could feel the gales shake the building. Around 6 I thought that I might just as well get up, and when I opened the door I received a shock – the winds in conjunction with the mild air temperature had caused the snow cover to collapse by more than a decimeter, and it was soft and slippery everywhere. I returned inside and lay down again until the weather report, and the wind continued although in slightly reduced capacity. It was actually fairly good on average, both regarding the wind and the weather in general, but when the gales hit it was no fun, and there was also a good deal of clouds being served from the usual Western Wall of White.

I went out to do what I could to transform the little slope down to my place from a death trap of ice to something that was actually passable, and then extended the effort to the other paths as well. I then made some space-saving changes in the shop and started planning the last days in detail food-wise. The group was out preparing the dogs, and I joined Matti for a chat, and then just watched. The temperature was now holding steady at –1°C, which was good for carrying purposes, and it was not quite as windy anymore. After the dogsleds had left I started lunch, but was interrupted by a snowmobile group of nine, who wanted to use the lower cottage for a lunch break of their own. Just then a lone skier also arrived, and he wanted to remain for the night as well; when we had taken care of his shopping needs I finally got to sit down to eat myself.

The lower cottage: exterior...

...common room...

...kitchen area...

...and bedroom

The upper cottage: common room and bedroom...

...and kitchen area

The not-too-brimming shop

My lair

The leader of the snowmobile gang then came in to pay, and he also gave me a carton of fresh milk they had no need for. I then went up to talk with the other guest, who was suffering from a light cold, so he was a bit unsure about how to proceed. The wind still persisted, and so did the wall which continuously fed airborne snow over the settlement. A bit later another large snowmobile group came (13 in total), and while they were not staying several of them wanted to visit the shop.

Later in the afternoon the wind finally started dying down, even though the gusty quality remained, and the sun set in a haze. In a post-dinner snowfall four more snowmobiles came up, now carrying fishermen in need of candy and snacks. At long last the air had become calm, and the fresh snow provided some grip on the slippery surfaces, so things were looking up. I later went over to talk with the other man, who was to make an early start tomorrow, and since I had similar thoughts I took advantage of the situation by packing for a day tour even now. The sky was clear with stars in great numbers, but further up Rapadalen there was still a large, low cloud. I listened to the late weather forecast which was somewhat hopeful, and then went to sleep with that hope in mind.

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