Thursday 7/3

I had the climbing skins on from the start, but actually began by going down a little bit, crossing the ravine below my cottage this time, and then headed straight for the sun. The peaks had plumes standing out from them, with some light clouds as company, and as I entered Šielmmávággi I was greeted by a hefty headwind. This gave way as I neared the pass point, where I found very fresh wolverine tracks, but a quick scan of the surrounding area revealed no originating creature.

New route

In Šielmmávággi

Leaving Alisvággi behind

I was up there before

Crevice on Šielmmáčorru

At the watershed: northwest...

...and southeast

I took off the skins and paused for a bit before going down the other side, which involved not going down at first, as I chose the higher route instead of the ravine to my right. The sun came back out when the view opened up, but there was also a rather strong northwesterly wind that caused some low drift. I made my way down to the top of the steep slope above lake 1078, which itself had been filled out differently than I've seen it before, which was all for the better – it was nice and even, and had a bit of an angle to it so that it was somewhat flatter than usual. Together with nice snow this made for excellent touring-mode telemark conditions, and I could have some fun.

Down on the lake it was still, and I aimed for the prominent western peak of Reaiddáčohkka in order to sidestep the somewhat precarious passage at the lake's outflow, where most people go. Looking down at the Nallo cottage and Stuor Reaiddávággi from the crest of the last slope I saw that there seemed to be no shortage of snow this winter, and the run down was good. A sudden sharp drop in contrast marked my entry into shadow, and then I arrived to a snow-plastered cottage around 11:15.

Approaching Stuor Reaiddávággi

Another panorama over Šielmmáčohkka, Nállu and Reaiddáčohkka

Drifting snow

At the lake

Fun slope

Sun over Vaktposten (Sentinel)

Šielmmáčohkka and Kugghjuls-
kammen (Cogwheel Ridge)

Panorama over Čeakčačohkka and Šielmmávággi

Cottage in view

Stuor Reaiddávággi south

Cottage in shadow

Inside I found Zamo the warden, whom I had seen in the lists many times but never actually met before. I had wanted to delay this Nallo visit for as long as possible, since the place wouldn't open officially until the 8^th, but he had actually been present for a couple of days already. We talked for a long time inside while I had my lunch, and among other things I learnt of some payment-related updates that had not yet reached Tjäktja. Outside conditions seemed to be worsening a bit towards the southwest, but the northwest, from where I had come, remained clear. Some more talk later it was clear that it was no longer clear, and things were growing whiter by the minute, so I though it best to start the trip back before it got too bad for comfort.

I sprinted halfway up the slope in order to get warm quickly, and now it was both snowing and blowing to the point where visibility was reduced to a few hundred meters at best. Crossing the lake was again a windless affair, and I could just make out the contours of the pass. I couldn't see my tracks, though, so I just followed the shape of the slope up, again taking the high route later on. I could see the sides of the valley, but not much else, and after a while I judged that I was a little bit higher than necessary, so I adjusted my heading slightly as I approached the watershed. This made me hit it perfectly, and once again I paused there before continuing – but this time I left the climbing skins on since the near-whiteout didn't exactly call for extra downhill speed.

Veiled sun

Veiled cottage

Veiled cliff

I could see a few rocks in my general direction of travel as well as parts of Šielmmáčorru, and then came to a cairn I knew the precise location of, so if I were to make a change of route this would be the point to do it. The haze seemed somewhat lighter here, however, and I could discern the southern side of the valley, so I decided to follow the closest path over the outrunner rather than following the valley all the way down to Alisvággi and seek out the trail there. I had not skied for long when the clouds started to part, and I could even see some sky. Soon thereafter the sun started pushing through, and as I crested the outrunner I was hit by a hard and cold southerly wind. Visibility was now fairly good, and the cottages were in full view, so I glided down at the speed allowed by the skins, stopping outside the buildings at 14:30.

Return of sky

Better still

Good visibility in Alisvággi

Wind and sun

Pass obscured

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