The headings reflect the main characteristics of this tour: that it was for all intents and purposes split into two discrete parts, and that it was the waters along the way that provided the core of the experience. Looking at the first statement, the first part (Sulitelma) had always held greater importance and attraction to me, and I must say that of the two it was the one that had the greatest effect. The area is a fascinating arrangement of rock, ice and water, but also with vast inviting grasslands and the like in immediate connection, and all the while one feels a presence, for lack of a better term.

The Sulidälbmá massif itself is imposing from any direction, and being able to make close contact with it like this is a chance not to be missed – even though it often is missed due to the place's knack for attracting bad weather, so I count myself fortunate. The second part allowed me to cover (most of) the remaining distance of Padjelantaleden; most of the southern half I had walked during that exceptionally beautiful circuit three years ago and my Såmmarlappa wardenship the following year. This I was also looking forward to, as the northern half is a favorite among many, and it is a splendid route – it's just that at least this time the Sulitelma portion was more splendid.

As for the waters, it was a long series of sights most pleasing. The first real treat was the view of Storelvvatnan from Tverrfjellet, spreading their turquoise surfaces beneath Sårjåstjåhkkå, and from there on it was to be a long time before I saw a lake or pond not colored by glacier silt. The following stage was the epitome of this, and the location of Sorjushytta by the rich Bajep Sårjåsjávrre was striking indeed – among the best I have seen so far, in fact. Going alongside the "Sårjås lakes" was just perfect, with the green grass and all, and then I got to experience Konsul Perssons stuga at its greatest; the lake fall is an astonishing feature, especially with the white-sided Sårjåstjåhkkå drawing the eye across the water.

The following day tour continued the streak – seldom have I glanced upon such a perfect reflection as that of Sulidälbmá in Stádák. Next up was Virihávrre, which has come to bear the unofficial title the most beautiful lake in Sweden, and it did not disappoint. The lake is curiously large and weather conditions in and around Stáloluokta are often such that there can be spectacular light shows on its surface, which shifts in all possible hues of blue, green and anything in between – and this was also true this time around.

The two high-perched outlooks over Virihávrre during the following days were really something, and there is a reason why those lunch breaks extended as long as they did – I simply could not take my eyes off the view! Miellädno and Låddejåhkå were almost impossibly green, and Vastenjávrre made a "wild" impression (much due to the windy day). Vuojatädno was impressive, as always, and finally Guvtjávrre greeted me with its mixed content; Vuojatädno feeds it with silt, whereas Sieberjåhkå is clear.

As mentioned the Sårjåsjaure cabin enjoys a grand repute, and even though "the most beautiful spot in the fjelds" may be a bit too strong – in fact, I got to experience a better candidate for that title a couple of weeks later – it is indeed a marvelous place. Especially the first evening was satisfying, and I am sure that having suffered that thunderstorm on the way played a significant role in this. Hardships are meant to be overcome, and when they are the rewards increase accordingly – and nowhere is this more tangible than in the fjelds. The day thereafter was of course great as well, with the flawless outlook on Sulidälbmá, and seeing as how it started to rain just a few minutes after my return (and then went on raining heavily for the rest of the day and evening) I really count my blessings.

All in all, this tour was very, very successful, and I reached a number of longed-for goals. Again the forecasts turned out not to be very good, at least locally (with regard to both space and time) – sure, it did rain quite a bit, but nowhere near as badly as one might have thought. I was lucky enough to get really great weather at crucial points, and perfectly acceptable weather at others, so I am indeed content with how it all turned out. Something else which turned out well was the somewhat short stages – I naturally slipped into a slower pace, making the most of each day. Finally, there were hardly any mosquitos at all, which is always something to be glad for. What was somewhat unusual about this tour was that the end was not really the end, for upon reaching Kutjaure there still lay three weeks of fjelds ahead of me...