Thursday 2/7

I biked my way to the train station in Östersund, walking stick strapped to the frame, and boarded the on-time westbound train in a morning that was already warm. Since the night trains no longer go further than Duved that was where I met up with the transfer bus which took me to Storulvån, where after encountering and talking a bit to a couple of known people I set out after 09:45.

The air was rather warm, but an appreciable wind took the edge off nicely. I passed a couple of people apparently collecting insects, and noted that the recent rainfall had turned parts of the trail somewhat muddy. Once on the eastern side of Handölan the dirt road to Tjallingen took by, which is perhaps not the most interesting of stretches, so I walked at a brisk pace. On the side of the road there were grassy clearings every now and then, and at times I drew near to the water. Shortly after Tjallingen the stream from V Bunnerskalet presents a ford, and with the current levels it could not be handled with my boots, so after ascertaining that the outflow was the best spot I changed to the slippers and made the crossing, which was easy enough.

Snasahögarna through the bus window

The Storulvån fjeld station across Stor-Ulvån

First bit of trail

Handölan bridge

Panorama over Snasahögarna

On the road

Snasahögarna across Handölan

Västra Bunnerstöten

Laptentjahke

First view of Helags

Easy

After that I came to the much larger Tjallingån, which however is spanned by a bridge a few hundred meters upstream, so that is where I went. This involved climbing a steep ridge from the top of which the view was just great, and on the other side of the bridge the landscape that took by was just perfect to walk through. Here the leaves were in the process of unfolding, so while everything was still green it was not quite as summery as before. Two cyclists passed me by as I made my way along the well-trodden path, crossing the odd brook with ease, and eventually decided to sit down for lunch on a low rise after Sylarna had emerged from behind Ö Endalshöjden.

Not so easy

View from the ridge: Tjallingklumpen and Gåsen

Better view of Helags

Västra Bunnerstöten across Tjallingån

Nice!

Behind

Ahead

Sylarna emerging

There was quite a bit of wind, but since it was itself warm I didn't bother with a jacket. The cyclists returned below me, and then a couple of runners passed by in the other direction. By the time I started walking again the wind had diminished to weak, and the path was still good to walk upon. I passed the first reindeer herd of the tour, complete with new calves, and soon spotted the two runners sitting atop a hill. Rounding said hill I then spotted the Gåsån shelter, where another herd had taken up residence, a few animals curiously nosing around the little hut. I approached with caution, letting them move off of their own accord, and managed to pass without disturbance.

Well marked

More of Sylarna

Hello there!

Approaching the shelter

Circumvention

Departing the shelter

As I climbed the low slopes of Gåsen proper the high veils that had been moving in from the west spread further, obscuring the sun from time to time, and higher up the wind returned. Another two cyclists riding what is commonly known as fatbikes passed me on their way down, and then I came to a rather swift stream emerging from a sizeable snowfield, spilling its waters much wider than usual. The snowfield in question did, however, present an easy way of crossing it, and near the crest of the slope there were some more, smaller snowfields intersecting the path. I rounded a corner of sorts and suddenly caught sight of the cottages ahead of me, remembering that they are now painted completely red as part of an advertising campaign for a paint company (who paid for the paint). The last bit was rather wet and/or snowy, and just around the buildings there was a thick, unbroken snow cover, which I stepped onto after 15:00.

Sylarna in full

Low flowers

Veils

Swift one

Cloudy

First sight

Winter

I went over to the warden's cottage, where Ingrid greeted me; Håkan was out on a walk trying to spot an arctic fox or two, which reside in the area. I talked for a long while with her, both outside and inside, and eventually took a bed in the newer cottage, being the first of the day to do so. After a quick wash and change of clothes I went out to find that Håkan had returned, and he came over for another chat. The two runners from before then came up, after which more people started to arrive. I made dinner and had it inside, since the wind had now turned less warm, but the clouds were dissipating and I sat outside in the wind jacket for a long while. I spent the evening resting, snacking, and walking around in the nice weather (not simultaneously), and eventually the wind died down almost completely. I was among the last to turn in around 22:30, with the gurgling of meltwater brooks outside the window.

Old cottage and Helags

New cottage and Sylarna

Sylarna without cottage

Stora Härjångsstöten

Snowy Gåsen

Helags by itself