Tuesday 11/9
I slept soundly through the night, getting up at 07:30 to a great display of light and morning mist. Apart from that, however, it was mostly cloudy, but any future rain was far off still, and as for winds I detected none. The stage before me would be a very easy one, and the deadline of 14:00 for the boat seemed generous, so I took my time doing the morning things, which now also included the cleaning of the areas I had used and the turning off of the LPG system. While I was busying myself the clouds broke apart and the sun showed its face; the outlook for the day were good.
When I left at 10:00 the sun was hidden by clouds which kept dissolving and reforming, and the peaks to the north were acquiring obscuring partners. I had only walked a short distance before I noticed that the right boot had grown rigid in just the wrong place, namely in the exact spot where it folded when I bent the foot. It softened somewhat by and by, and for some periods it would not be felt at all, but it was a continuous thorn in the side, albeit a mild one.
The weather was perfect, with the air temperature holding at a very modest level and the sun not directly affecting anything, and I felt neither hot nor cold in my woolen dress/wind dress combo. As I passed into spruce country the advent of autumn grew less apparent, but the scents remained. At Bäcken I made a brief pause, which by some deep magicks prompted the sun to reappear and the peak-clouds to disappear.
Once I got going again the spell was broken and things returned to their previous state, but off to the north it was mostly clear. When I reached Rávddajåhkå the clouds parted again and it immediately got warmer, so I slowed my steps lest I get too hot myself; I also had a lot of time to spare, so it was no use hurrying on ahead in the first place. After Vállebäcken the forest took on a sublime character, and walking through it was a joy. When the clock had moved on past 12:45 I found myself at the boat landing...
Starting to walk...
...through the tinted land...
...before Gasskájvo
The trail close to the Njunjes settlement
Fading life at said settlement
A brief view of Darrhaädno
Much nicer shots...
...of Bäcken this time around
Paying a quick visit...
...to Darrhaädno
Gasskájvo in the process of being clouded
A different outlook on Vuogá
Another Vuogá shot...
...and one of Gasskájvo
Firmly into the coniferous realm
Some mushrooms beside the trail
Touching by Darrhaädno
Colorful clearing
A white peak
Passing Vállebäcken
Still a lot of green...
...close to the boat jetty
...where I also found the same two Germans who were also waiting for the boat. I sat down on the jetty to have lunch, and just then it started to rain. It was not very much, though; not nearly enough to make me consider even shifting position. Now some high veils had started sliding over the large blue areas in the sky – the last weather report I had listened to before leaving Såmmarlappa had spoken of rain this evening, and it looked as though it might hold true. The Germans had made a small fire in the makeshift tent-hut serving as shelter for prospective passengers, trying to dry their socks. The boat was a bit late, but around ten minutes past it entered our field of view down the river, with the same now rather familiar driver at the helm.
From the jetty: Vuogá...
...and Nammásj
There were two other passengers – one of whom was from Östersund too (or, more precisely: Ås) – in the boat already and they also returned with it, receiving the full guide talk from the driver. We paid another visit to the side channel in reoccurring sunlight, and things were very tranquil and nice. Landfall was made at the trail to Prinskullen, where I had come down last year; the non-German pair were going up to have an aerial view of the delta. The rest of us made a short cultural stroll in the area, which shows a number of historical remnants, before passing the outflow of Gamajåhkå with the boat, going ashore before the regular jetty. The Germans started towards the camping ground some distance up the slope, but I remained talking with the boat driver for some time before we parted ways, and I followed a footpath up to the fjeld station.
The eastern face of Vuogá head-on
Gasskájvo + colors
Snowy fjelds...
...further away
Rear view
Another visit...
...to the side channel
Nammásj
The impassable outflow...
...of Gamajåhkå
On the western side of Gamajåhkå
Walking through the outskirts...
...of Kvikkjokk
A dove on the station's railing
After checking in and leaving my stuff in the room which I was currently the sole master of I went out for a walk, the main objective of which was locating the domicile of Tobbe, the STF caretaker in the Kvikkjokk/Stora Sjöfallet area, to return the keys. I had only some loose verbal directions to go on, but the situation resolved itself when the sought-after man – whom I knew from both the warden course and a visit to Kebnekaise – appeared in my sights, and we talked for a bit about Såmmarlappa and my assignment there.
Back inside I relaxed and called Siv at the STF office in Nattavaara to report in, and a longer conversation on the same theme followed. Once that was taken care of I had a much longed-for shower and a snack, and then went for another stroll. This time I went upstream Gamajåhkå to get a closer look at the gushing water, going back along its course to an announced art exhibition further down. The artist herself was inside, but no one else, and we plunged into a very lengthy talk about anything and everything relating to wardenship, Kvikkjokk, STF, tourism, and the fjelds upon the whole, being joined by The Boat Driver from time to time.
The old...
...church...
...of the village
The ever-present profile of Gasskájvo
Some shots of the rapids...
...in Gamajåhkå...
...in the vicinity of the fjeld station
It was gettting dusky when I ultimately left close to 19:30, and the rain had just started; clouds were low to the west and it was evident that before long they would envelop the village in full, bringing heavier precipitation. I jogged back up to the station and upon entering my room I found one out of two newly arrived roommates there. A school class was supposed to be having dinner between 19 and 20, which meant that the dining room was more or less off limits during that time, so I sat down outside it and read for a bit before going in. A fine dinner was had in tranquility and then I paid up, seeing as how no one would be present in the reception when I would be leaving the following morning – the only bus to Jokkmokk on weekdays this time of year leaves at the oh-so-amiable time 05:40...
Outside it was raining profusely and inside the "lobby" the German-pair were having a drink; they would also be going on the next bus. Back in my room I talked with the other two guys, who were now both present – they were planning on going through Sarek via Skierffe, Rapadalen and Ruohtesvágge, and I offered what insights and up-to-date information I had. After a while they went out, and after packing up I put an early end to the last day of this little expedition of mine.