Tuesday 27/3

This time I refrained from weighing the pack, and instead glided down to the trail straight away. The snow in the slope was good and all, but there were bare patches of varying size along the marked route; some could be circumvented easily, but the easiest way to pass a few others was simply to walk across them (with skis on – the ground consisted of soft heath). Out of the protected position behind Kaipak the wind was harder, and since it was blowing directly against my direction of travel I had to expend considerably more energy than usual to move forward. On the flat expanse between the station and Lillberget the snow was fine, however, and progress was mostly unproblematic. During that portion I also met a couple of skiers coming from the other direction, and the wind propelled them past me at astonishing speed.

When I reached Lillberget I entered the shadow of Skárttoaivi, and there the snow was much harder, not having been affected by direct sunlight, and since the trail goes uphill there I had quite a hard time in the headwind. Back out in the sun it was warm enough, and everything was better there. When I reached Šiellajohka I found it to be partially open, but a quick survey of the surroundings revealed an all-ice passage close by. After that the snow-to-heath ratio was reversed, and it was no use trying to find a passable path; it was back to ski-walking. There I met a lone woman with a dog and a sled who told me that on the other side conditions were much better, both wind-wise and snow-wise.

Passing into the narrowing the wind had changed to southwesterly – as usual – and further ahead (back in the shadow) it was decidedly chilling, coming through the cleft that separates Skárttoaivi from Liddubákti. However, as soon as I had passed this cleft the wind started to decrease, and on the crest at the western end of the valley it was but a breeze. I took a shortcut past a trail turn and then got a nice downhill run on the polished snow – something which felt extra good seeing as how I had been working hard against the wind all the way. And speaking of wind – as I arrived at Singi around 17 it was actually calm; this reversal of the usual Singi-Kebnekaise relationship when it comes to wind conditions was unusual, but very welcome.

Failing snow cover in the valley...

...not to mention on the slopes below and around Jökelbäcken

Drifting snow in Kitteldalen...

...and on Giebmegáisi

Sun and open brook

Passing out of...

...Láddjuvággi

Sáŋarčohkka and Stuor Avrrik

Mini-panorama over Unna Avrrik, Stuor Ruška and Unna Ruškkaš

Mini-panorama over Neasketvággi and Sealggá

Stuor-Jiertá and southern Čeakčavággi

Liddubákti in the late afternoon sun

Gaskkasnjunni, Duolbanjunečohkka and Guobirčohkka in the same

Cottage and dreamy light

I spoke with Ludvig for a while, learning that the three cottages of the site would be nearly full this time around, which stood in stark contrast to my two last visits. One cottage was occupied by a school class, and the other was "reserved" for an STF group of 14 who were scheduled to arrive shortly, and in the 6-bed guest room in the wardens' cottage there were three people (two Swedes and one German) for the time being. I chose to join the latter, entering a conversation in short notice. Then the two Swedes went out for a walk, and a dogsledder with an accompanying skier arrived at the same time; they were placed (or requested to be placed) in the small hut which conveniently enough had recently been renovated.

I had dinner and then rested after a taxing afternoon while the others ate. By then a bit of northerly wind had come into being, but that did nothing to take away from the beauty of the evening. I dozed off lying on my bed, and when I awoke perhaps an hour later I went over to Ludvig and Ida with some fresh fruit, continuing the tradition of evening talks. Back in the other room the rest had gone to bed, but I had a snack and went for a stroll under the stars in the fantastic fjeld night before doing the same.

Liddubákti in the evening sun

G¹, D, and G² in the same

Darkness is come