I like the early winter season, both because it's not so crowded in the cottages and on the trails, and because it's a different kind of snow – and therefore "look and feel" – compared to the end of the season. Therefore, I had already planned on doing a tour in early March, and when I got a mail from STF about a special discount offer for members in Jämtland during the first two weeks, it was definitely settled.

Regarding where to go, I had been considering the notion of visiting Norway – more specifically, by rounding the Sylarna massif, visiting Nedalshytta and Storerikvollen, finishing with a substantial dinner at the Blåhammaren fjeld station back in Sweden. However, as I began researching this proposal, I discovered that the two Norwegian facilities would be all locked up until early April/Easter, at which time one has to pay for full service (i.e. no cooking of one's own).

Now, the Norwegian Mountain Touring Association (DNT) has a system in which members can request a standard key that fits nearly all locks on their large number of mountain cabins, making them available around the year. Since I did not feel like paying the entrance fee to another association just for that, I put the border-crossing out of my mind for the time being. But, some time later I chanced upon an ad paper jointly produced by Trondhjems Turistforening (TT) and STF, wherein it was revealed that members of STF also have the right to request the key. Strange that neither association has any info on that on their respective websites...

With the neighboring country back in play, I drew up a plan, extending the circuit of Sylarna to include some of the Swedish cottages as well, making the tour a rather long one. I like those...

My packing list was as follows:

Add to that a liter of hot water in the thermos, and a half-liter bottle of cold water I carried in the anorak's chest pocket.

I had a specific time period in mind, and as it was nearing the weather forecasts seemed more and more favorable. In fact, I considered starting a day earlier due to exceptionally nice weather, but ultimately decided to wait, mostly due to difficulties in getting to the train station early in the morning on a Sunday.

Here, then, is the full account of what transpired during the subsequent nine days. Each section has a header consisting of a short overview of the stage in question, complete with a map showing the route travelled. A ring marks the starting point, a square the lunch break location (if any), and a star the destination. Vertical distances have been calculated from the map and have an accuracy of 20 m. All breakfasts consisted of oatmeal porridge, tea and a sandwich.